Thanks Jdub, i like your answer. For me and lowtaco (you will want to know this for sure lowtaco) how is it suggested to prepare the deck surface on the block, i heard that u DON'T sand it to get it as smooth as possible i actually heard that on the deck surface on the block ( not talking about the head, head requires machining) that u just use a gasket scraper and get all the gasket surface off and that would be good. Is that true?
7MGTE re-assembly
- Thread starter lowtaco
- Start date
The block deck needs to be machined for a MHG, just like the head. Or, it can be hand lapped with the motor in the car using a lapping plate and diamond paste. If you scrape the old HG off and that's it...use a OEM HG. I would never sand the block deck...if you do, there is a very high probability that "hills & valleys" will be induced.
92nsx;1391095 said:No need for all the extra fuel and what not for 300Many members are just running higher boost on the ct-26, intake and 3" exhaust/dp and are making 300+ on stock fuel / clutch. Kind of like me. If anything I need to take fuel OUT. Im running under 10 as soon as I see boost.
Really?! Might hold off then considering money is tight. As far as my head gasket/studs go, I used the OEM Toyota gasket and new head bolts. OEM gaskets fail under higher boost/detonation, so I'll keep it at a moderate boost level and make sure I get a AF sensor to moniter things.
Also, got the engine completley back together just waiting for some $$$ for a clutch then the car should be going again.
Too bad soundslikesemi87 hasn't commented on this thread yet. He's running a stock HG, and properly torqued head bolts @ 15-18psi. That car made me want to piss myself when he put his foot into it :biglaugh:
Yep...a properly tuned motor will run all day at those boost levels. You have to be careful though, you detonate at all and it's done.
Personally, I'd drop it down a bit (safety margin) and be happy
Personally, I'd drop it down a bit (safety margin) and be happy
I know the 2RZ Tacoma engines will handle up to 15psi properly tuned. Not real sure what the gasket material is tho. 15-18 psi? How many foot pounds you torquing them to?
lowtaco;1409666 said:
YEP. In fact here is the dyno sheet on 100% OEM electronics, fuel system and turbo (and still to need to take fuel out). And If I would take the 272 cams and reinstall the factory turbo cams the HP #'s would be considerably higher
272 dont like low boost. The A/F ratio is on the bottom of the sheet. Well under 10 as soon as boost comes on. Boost levels are 10-11 lbs on oem CT-26
Dyno sheets dont lie so here it is
92nsx;1410366 said:YEP. In fact here is the dyno sheet on 100% OEM electronics, fuel system and turbo (and still to need to take fuel out). And If I would take the 272 cams and reinstall the factory turbo cams the HP #'s would be considerably higher
The A/F ratio is on the bottom of the sheet. Well under 10 as soon as boost comes on. Boost levels are 10-11 lbs on oem CT-26
Dyno sheets dont lie so here it is
Awesome numbers!! I cant belive thats just with more boost. No other mods at all, intake, exhaust?
Insert random cussing.... I installed the exhaust mani last night and the previously installed heli-coils on two of the studs pulled out:3d_frown:
No biggy but everytime I get a step ahead somthing sets me back.
Also does anyone have any factory injectors laying around that are close to Ky??
No biggy but everytime I get a step ahead somthing sets me back.
Also does anyone have any factory injectors laying around that are close to Ky??
New pic! Ive got alot more done since this one. Everything is back on except the CPS and the injectors. Ive finally got my OEM clutch cant wait to get this thing running again, Ive never even driven a Supra.
jdub;1391363 said:
John - Lets just say that hks WANTS you to have a lower ra spec and it has never really been proven that the lower ra spec is absolutly needed. Conversly, it has never been proven that the cometic is more forgiving to ra spec,,,only that they do not ask for as low an ra spec as HKS. Both gaskets could very well have identical sealing properties at the exact same ra spec.
swaq;1384669 said:
This is incorrect, a stock headgasket will handle 15 PSI(max psi on a stock ct-26 any more then 15 and you are just blowing hot air) if the head and block is preped correctly.
ATL88Supra;1428575 said:
you go ahead and push it too 15psi on a stock hg...the rest of us would rather not.
gaboonviper85;1428620 said:
hmmm, well, I won't recommend running high boost with the stock gasket with unknown history (torque specs) but my car has over 20000 miles on it running 12-14 lbs, the car fuel cuts right around 14-15 lbs, on the stock head gasket. I can monitor AFR's though to help make sure it will not be likely to detonate (as well as using my ears). It is widely accepted that the OEM gasket is fine up to around the 300 rwhp but at that point it becomes more succeptable to failure from detonation. Detonation will kill it in short order.
Rather than tell everyone that the OEM gasket sucks maybe you should get your turbo car running and then spread some advice from experience...good luck on your build though, it is looking good.
I heard of someone hitting fuel cut at only 12 psi, is that even normal???? If so thats pretty lame.
I just got a CPS and injectors, still waiting on a air flow sensor. But everything is going good, Im going to get the engine set back in this weekend if the rain lets up.
Is it recommended to re-torque head bolts after a few heat cycles on these engines?
Is it recommended to re-torque head bolts after a few heat cycles on these engines?
I run 15 psi all day long on my stock gasket and have been for 2 years and 50,000 miles. Gab once again you are ignorant if you are unable to build a motor correctly please send me your supra/supra's.
lowtaco;1429151 said:
YES if you use ARP hardware STUDS OR BOLTS 500 miles or 3 or 4 heat cycles , repeat till you reach 500 miles, play it safe do it right! 75 to 80 pounds 80 should be the max
also know i recheck my studs every year in the 1st months of summer