7MGTE Oil pressure system.

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simond355

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Apr 27, 2015
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Jylland
Yes i have tried read the forum but not found the answer i search.
Currently i have a good oil pressure about 55 psi at 3k rpm, 25 psi idle (both at hot temp).
New DM modified oil pump with AZ hardpipe, shimmed the oil pump aswell.
But the relief spring in the oil filter housing, is there any advantages of shimming it?
Will it cause it to run more oil through the cooler so my oil gets cooled even more? Or is it a dumb idea to shim it

Please explain me why its good idea or not!

Thx
 
suprarx7nut

suprarx7nut

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I would ditch the pressure-based cooling system entirely before shimming it. It's a great, reliable system for power levels below ~350 whp, but problematic above that, IMO.

Shimming it would allow more pressure in the engine before cooling any oil. This is good for oil pressure in the system, but potentially bad for oil cooling.

What are your power goals?

Would a $500-700 oil cooling upgrade break the budget for the build?
 
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simond355

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Apr 27, 2015
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suprarx7nut said:
I would ditch the pressure-based cooling system entirely before shimming it. It's a great, reliable system for power levels below ~350 whp, but problematic above that, IMO.

Shimming it would allow more pressure in the engine before cooling any oil. This is good for oil pressure in the system, but potentially bad for oil cooling.

What are your power goals?

Would a $500-700 oil cooling upgrade break the budget for the build?
Click to expand...

Build is, but not fitted yet:
550 RC Injectors
Lexus AFM
DM Downpipe full 3 inch with elbow
CT26 Trim57
Fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255
Apexi Neo Safc
Wideband
Planning on 1 bar of boost.



No i wouldnt, i just dont know what to buy lol, can you help me out?
 
hvyman

hvyman

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You can get a earls oil thermostat sand which plate. And then just run 2 lines to a oil cooler. Not sure if it will fit on 7m tjo. If the filter won’t fit you can get filter adapters and relocate if.

Or get filter adapter for block and separate on for filter and then run lines to a thermostat and cooler.

There’s a huge thread on oil filter relocation.
 
suprarx7nut

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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simond355 said:
Build is, but not fitted yet:
550 RC Injectors
Lexus AFM
DM Downpipe full 3 inch with elbow
CT26 Trim57
Fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255
Apexi Neo Safc
Wideband
Planning on 1 bar of boost.



No i wouldnt, i just dont know what to buy lol, can you help me out?
Click to expand...

For that build I'd consider keeping it as is. From a performance standpoint for racing or high horsepower, the stock system is pretty terrible. For a highway puller or reasonably normal driver, the stock system is fine, IMO. I ran the stock system for years, driving it hard over ~30k miles at 10-12psi on a 50 trim CT. The engine was perfectly fine after all those miles. Your 57 trim CT26 will be capable of a little more, but not much. You're not going to kill the motor because your oil pressure was just a tad low due to the oil system and you're very unlikely to overcook a good synthetic oil.

If you're into the upgraded oil circuit then spend some time searching and learning. Driftmotion offers a kit, but you should still understand it perfectly before installing it. Install it wrong and you could kill the motor in seconds before you have time to shut it down. It's money well spent in the name of reliability, but not entirely necessary for most people, IMO.

Again, I've got controversial oil system views around here so take it with a grain of salt. :)
 
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simond355

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Apr 27, 2015
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suprarx7nut said:
For that build I'd consider keeping it as is. From a performance standpoint for racing or high horsepower, the stock system is pretty terrible. For a highway puller or reasonably normal driver, the stock system is fine, IMO. I ran the stock system for years, driving it hard over ~30k miles at 10-12psi on a 50 trim CT. The engine was perfectly fine after all those miles. Your 57 trim CT26 will be capable of a little more, but not much. You're not going to kill the motor because your oil pressure was just a tad low due to the oil system and you're very unlikely to overcook a good synthetic oil.

If you're into the upgraded oil circuit then spend some time searching and learning. Driftmotion offers a kit, but you should still understand it perfectly before installing it. Install it wrong and you could kill the motor in seconds before you have time to shut it down. It's money well spent in the name of reliability, but not entirely necessary for most people, IMO.

Again, I've got controversial oil system views around here so take it with a grain of salt. :)
Click to expand...

Do you happen to maybe got a link to where i can read about it??
I want to make the thing bullet proof, and oiling system is not where i wanna be a cheap ass! :icon_bigg
 
suprarx7nut

suprarx7nut

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Piratetip

Piratetip

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I had the "full flow " oil cooler route for some time. After weighing the pros and cons of that system I decided to totally ditch it. I now run a modified stock system w/ an entirely custom oil cooler setup, which is on it's own loop and separate pump.

After a deep study of the stock system and it's components I kept the best and ditched the rest.
Primarily completely disabling the stock oil cooler and replacing with one of my own design.
 
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simond355

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Apr 27, 2015
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Piratetip said:
I had the "full flow " oil cooler route for some time. After weighing the pros and cons of that system I decided to totally ditch it. I now run a modified stock system w/ an entirely custom oil cooler setup, which is on it's own loop and separate pump.

After a deep study of the stock system and it's components I kept the best and ditched the rest.
Primarily completely disabling the stock oil cooler and replacing with one of my own design.
Click to expand...

Explain me the pros and cons please, and what did you do and why?
 
Piratetip

Piratetip

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I'll try to summarize quickly.

Stock oil filter housing/cooler
Pro - good packaging / compact
- low component count / potential external failure points.
- shortest oil path to feed the engine (lowest pumping losses)
- no expandable components ( soft lines)

Con - pressure based cooler bleeds off a small portion of the oil feed to the engine.
- small(er) orifices at critical junctions / connections / banjo bolts

Full Flow System
Pro - fully integrated oil filter / cooler and thermostat in one
- all flow from the oil pump feeds the engine ( none bled off to be cooled and drained back to the pan)

Con - large number of external connections and components. If any one of these fails your engine looses pressure and boom metal glitter in your pan
- 5 ft + of external soft lines (SSN or Teflon shrouded ect..) the oil pump must push through before going back to the engine
- higher pumping losses
- increased weight and component count

There are probably other points I am forgetting ATM.

So I kept the stock system and corrected the cons list as well as totally eliminated the pressure bleed off oil cooler system.
I still utilize the gte oil filter housing however. ( Modified)

Then added a secondary small oil pump to feed the oil cooler. This is fed directly from the pan using some extra fittings I installed as well as an aftermarket temp sensor.
 
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simond355

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Piratetip

Piratetip

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simond355 said:
And another question, should i be worried about rear and main seals etc assumed oil pressure will go far up compared to what it is now?
Click to expand...

No, seals should be unaffected by oil pressure.

If you are having seals blow out its usually due to a lack of a properly working PCV system.
Best to keep the crankcase under a slight vacuum.

The full flow oil cooler thread covers how to route the oil lines.
Here is a simple diagram showing the connections.
diagramoilroute.gif
 
Piratetip

Piratetip

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Yeah external mounted, just 3 extra fittings on the pan.
1 feed, 1 return and 1 for the temp sensor.
 
Piratetip

Piratetip

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Go for it. :D
Just remember to give a mention back! :thumbup::icon_lol:
 
3p141592654

3p141592654

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Piratetip said:
Con - large number of external connections and components. If any one of these fails your engine looses pressure and boom metal glitter in your pan
- 5 ft + of external soft lines (SSN or Teflon shrouded ect..) the oil pump must push through before going back to the engine
- higher pumping losses
- increased weight and component count
Click to expand...

What kind of pressure loss is seen with a thermostatically controlled external full-flow setup? I have no feel for whether its a few psi or more.

I have always liked the more modern coolant-based oil coolers such as on the JZ engines or pretty much anything else these days. Seems it has the advantage of warming the oil when cold without requiring a thermostat which will eventually fail.
 
Piratetip

Piratetip

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Pi it would be tough to accurately answer that question.

I do not know the actual gallons per minute the 7M engine oil pumps through the system.

Someone could set up a test stand and spin the pump under pressure to measure the flow output.
But the chances of someone actually doing that are slim to none.

To get a rough estimate:
Here is a nice chart showing pressure drop values per 10 feet of line.
Most people use dash -8 or 1/2" ID lines, so use that column.
Pressure drop values listed here are calculated at 100°F temperature for petroleum based oil.
This chart only accounts for the line itself, not any fittings in the system.
http://pressureconnections.com/customer/prcoco/customerpages/literature/Hose_Pressure_Drop_Chart.pdf

My best guess for flow rates on this engine would be:
5 GPM @ 3,000 RPM
10 GPM @ 6,000 RPM
 
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