The reading should be alright. It will show different resistance when the engine is hot. Check it when it is cold it will probably be within specs. If it showed no resistance, then you got problems. I checked advance auto this past summer, they want $450 for a new cps. Napa and toyota dealer both want $630. It is a very expensive item. I purchase mine off of ebay for around $80. Just make sure you get the person to read the resistance on the coils because you don't won't to buy a bad one and hopefully they will tell the truth. I would not buy one if it shows resistance ,just pick you a new cover up. As for the real rich condition, I am curious if your intercooler is stopped up. Check all the hoses going into the intake make sure their not stopped up and maybe try bypassing the intercooler for test purposes.
7mgte AFM issues, please help!
- Thread starter BoostedRunner87
- Start date
ok, yeah the readings were probly a little high because it was warm. i'm just gonna try and find a cap to replace for now. Since this is engine is swapped into a 4runner, an intercooler was never installed, so i dont have to worry about any blockage there! yeah its weird, it seems like it is getting no air at all. like it idles fine, but when i push on the gas it completely falls on its face. then if i hold the throttle down for a few seconds like that, it will backfire through the intake. that leads me to believe something is wrong with the timing. Now that my cps cap is all broken into pieces i have to replace that before i can even start it up and check the timing!
Ok. That elimantes the intercooler. You can check the timing without the dust cap. I just would not drive it. It should be fine just setting their idling. What is your car idling at. If you check your timing remember to jumper the to pins under the hood. If you don't you will be fighting the computer. Go to the tsrm and it will tell you. Hook up on cylinder 6 not 1. I swear that is how my did when I unpluged my afm, it would just drop. The rpms never jumped up. It would just idle. Recheck their solder joints to the afm and if you fill if they are ok leave it alone if not redo them.
yeah i started it without the cap and it wasnt very happy. the CEL came on right away and it didnt even idle very good. i am going to wait until i can get a good cap to check the timing. and i dont know what it is idling at because the previous owner did not hook up the tach in the 4runner to the engine. do you know which wire i could tap into to get a signal for the aftermarket tach i have? I really want to get that hooked up. I am positive my wires to the afm are good. I checked for power at the ecu pins and right at the afm connector when it was unplugged. I got the same readings at both ends, so the wires are good all the way from the ecu to the afm.
Driftmotion.com sells a billet cps cover, with new seal and bolts, for $65.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7mcpsbilletcover.php
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7mcpsbilletcover.php
It is the black wire going into the check connector. You can actually hook it up to the check connector to see if it works before splicing into it. They give you this luxury for one man working on a vehicle. Keep in mind I am looking at the 1990 online tsrm but it is probably the same. The ig- is the pin.
I'm confused, you have a code 34, and you think its due to the CPS! :aigo: I can see why JJ gave up on this one.
3p141592654;1469844 said:
i do not have a code 34. i said in one of my other posts that i was wrong and wrote it down wrong or something. i'm getting code 31 and 32. i know that one is for the HAC which is not my problem because this ecu has had that code ever since the swap was done like five years ago. so i am only concerned about the AFM code. but i really dont think the afm is the problem because i have tried three of them with the same results. I have extensively checked for vaccum leaks and have found nothing. another guy told me today that i could have some kind of blockage in the turbo somewhere. idk, but it deffinately seems like i am not getting enough air. it runs pretty smooth at idle and does not throw the code until you try to rev it up, then it falls right on its face and soon after throws the afm code. it has also been running VERY rich. i'm talkin like after i run it for three minutes there is black soot all over the floor of my garage!
Sorry, I meant 31. In any case, code 31 is not coming from the CPS. A bad CPS will give a code 12 or 13. A blocked turbo seems unlikely, especially if it spins which is a test I would assume you have already done.
I would check for an open in E2 (the sensor ground) or short circuit between Vc and Ks. Clearly the AFM itself is not the problem if you replaced it 3 times. Time to look at the wiring I would say.
I would check for an open in E2 (the sensor ground) or short circuit between Vc and Ks. Clearly the AFM itself is not the problem if you replaced it 3 times. Time to look at the wiring I would say.
yeah i need to double check all my grounds and such. i thought i checked everything once but i will do it again.
Check your afm pins on the black box and see if they are bad shape. I just got threw playing with the lexus v8 afm that I have and I took a light and shinned down on the pins and notice they had alot of corsin on them. I could not see it until I put the flashlight on it. It might be something to check into. When I have a pretty day I believe I will try mine again and see if that was the problem.
BoostedRunner87;1470707 said:
did you verify that your Ks signal is correct now that you have a new AFM sensor? Why not be sure that is working before going into a new system? That is if it is running at all. I'd rather see if there are the right signals at the ECU before I check all the wiring and sensors directly.
Victor Charlie;1470853 said:
i do not have a sensitive enough testing meter to read the variation in the signal. i really have no way of testing that while its running
BoostedRunner87;1470895 said:
You can get a DMM with frequency readout for under $40 from Radio Shack, I saw one for about $20 by Steren that might even do the job.
well heres a little update. Its still not fixed!! i replaced the cps cap because my old one was cracked and falling apart. i cleaned a bit of dirt and gunk out of the cps while the cap was off. i then started it and it ran ok. i could actually rev it a bit without it immediatly falling on its face. The CEL came on after it was running for a little while but it still seemed to be running better than before. so i tried to drive it. I could accalerate slowly then it would all of a sudden cut out, but if i keep my foot in the throttle a bit it will pull through and accelerate pretty good. once i got the rpm's up i shifted to 2nd and the CEL went off. It stayed off while accelerating, but as soon as i let up on the throttle it immediatly comes back on and almost dies. I tried this a few times with the same results. I then checked my codes and i am now getting a code 34 after driving it a bit. That is directly related to the turbo and abnormal boost, or it could still be the afm causing this code. I seemed to be building boost ok and it never boosted more than normal or anything like that. Does this mean i could have a boost leak or vaccum leak? or does it still mean i probly have a bad afm?