I believe that will fix your problem. My stock afm works fine on my car but the lexus v8 afm will not work, like you said the last number is different. I believe the one you bought to replace your stock was off of a lexus v8. Some people say lexus afm works on some supra's but everywhere I read they don't recommend it. I am talking about the electronic black box. If you get the same part number as your stock afm, you should be in good shape hopefully.
7mgte AFM issues, please help!
- Thread starter BoostedRunner87
- Start date
Here is the part number from the lexus v8. 22204-42011 The part number for my stock is 22204-42010.
As I suspected. I ran that number for years and kept the stock one as a spare. In fact 42011 was still on the car when I got rid of it. Had zero problems the entire time...
Mine is a 89+ but I know one thing that it will not work on mine. It ran rough for a couple of days and then just died. I put my stock back on and it ran fine. I read different people using them and some people said it work while other had no luck. My advice is to get the same part number if it keeps throwing the same afm code.
I dunno what to say. The pin out for both devices are the same, as are their signals. Many people have used the part without issue. They have different numbers because of a slight difference that doesn't effect operation. I suspect the number is also different simply because it's a Lex part. It's a Toyota thing.
Understand, I'm talking about using a stock or Lex sensor in a Lex housing. I don't recall ever trying a Lex sensor in the stock housing (which is apparently what's being discussed here) but off hand I don't see why there'd be a problem. I've been wrong before though.
Regardless, the reason behind why any sensor fails to work is easily identified. All one has to do is measure it...
Understand, I'm talking about using a stock or Lex sensor in a Lex housing. I don't recall ever trying a Lex sensor in the stock housing (which is apparently what's being discussed here) but off hand I don't see why there'd be a problem. I've been wrong before though.
Regardless, the reason behind why any sensor fails to work is easily identified. All one has to do is measure it...
my original part number is 22204-42010, and the replacement i got was a 42011. like you jetjock said they are both supposed to work but mine isnt. (assuming the afm is my only problem) i have an original part number afm on the way, hopefully it works
well another afm did not fix my problem. i installed the one i just got and started the truck. it ran great, i could rev it up with no hesitation or misfire or CEL. so i let it idle for a bit while i did some other stuff. then i went over and reved it up just a little by hand to see if it was still good to go before a test drive. as soon as i reved it up it stumbled a bit then backfired through the intake. I could here a little "pop" from the filter area. after that it ran crappy and eventually the CEL came on again for the afm code...... idk what the hell to do with this turd. what else could cause it to backfire like that? i know timing could, but i dont see any way its possible that my timing is all of a sudden off.
My cps connector on my car was in bad shape. The heat from the exhaust manifold bakes the connector. It made my car backfire threw the intake. You might check the wires going into the connector on both sides. Pull on the wires alittle to make sure they are not burnt off and also take a look at them. I don't really know why it would throw the afm code but give it a check. I believe jetjock is right about the lexus v8 it should work but maybe we had some bad luck.
i will check that out tomorrow! another guy told me it could be a cps issue because usually when an efi vehicle backfires through the intake, then the timing is off. So if my cps is getting an intermitten signal then it would be the same as incorrect timing.
If that is your problem, then I would recommend solder the wires for good connection. Many people rather put the connector back on the cps or the harness side but that is your main source. Those connectors can cause alot of problems.
ok thanks. i'm assuming you are talking about the cam position sensor? or do you mean the crank position sensor?
They have cam position sensors. You can check the resistance on the cps at the tsrm but don't forget to check the connector also. It should be located behind the thermostat housing.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=16
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=16
89supracrazy;1469253 said:
ok thanks for the link! i will check that out here pretty quick. so does the 7mgte have a crank position sensor too?
well i checked out the cps wires and sure enough they were in rough shape. i pulled on the plug a little and two of the wires basically broke off right away. so i cut it back a couple inches to get rid of all the crap wire. I put new ends on it and reconnected it to the cps. didnt help my problem one bit. i took the cap off the cps and it basically fell apart in my hand. its all cracked and in bad shape. the cps was dirty inside with oil and dirt. i sprayed some afm cleaner in it to clean all the gunk out. I need to try and piece the cap back together and put it on so i can check the timing too. Also i checked the ohm readings of the cps. spec is 140-18- ohms. mine was reading between 192-194 ohms. idk if that means my cps is bad for sure or what. but i just dont see how overnight it could go from working fine to having to high of an ohm reading.
Does anyone happen to have a good cap for a cps they would sell me? or maybe i should replace the whole thing? idk Also the engine is running very rich! after having it running for just a couple minutes there is black soot all over the ground by the tailpipe.
Does anyone happen to have a good cap for a cps they would sell me? or maybe i should replace the whole thing? idk Also the engine is running very rich! after having it running for just a couple minutes there is black soot all over the ground by the tailpipe.