7mge block the same as the 7mgte ?

[slow_yota]

I found a bone yard with a 87 n/a supra, Is almost better than a 7mgte with having the n/a head.I dont want to have any/much down time.I have all the turbo items i'll need already in my car..the ecu, electronics and so forth.
Shooting for a 500 hp goal.Anyways, other than the turbo oil pan..What do i need to drill, tap weld into the block for oil - turbo purposes ?

Heres what the motor will end up with.

- forged pistons
- rebuilt n/a head with some goodies
[port-matched & polish, over sized valves and adj. cam gears]
- balanced rotating assembly with a knife edge crank
- ct26 61 trim prolly.
- APR Everything.
- 550 fuel injectors
- FFIM - Q45 TB
- upgraded FMIC

if i've missed anything, Reply or Pm me.
I'm very interested in any positive constructive criticism.

 

[supraman7mgte]

knock sensors and oil squirters

 

[Nghty89]

From all that I have heard from certain members, the only differences between the N/A head and Turbo head I am aware of are the cams. (Someone PLEASE correct me if I am wrong so I don't sound like an idiot)

Why go through all the trouble to drill for oil squirters, when you can get a 7mgte bare block for cheap...? Do it once, do it right. Work smarter, not harder.

 

[slow_yota]

From all that I have heard from certain members, the only differences between the N/A head and Turbo head I am aware of are the cams. (Someone PLEASE correct me if I am wrong so I don't sound like an idiot)

Why go through all the trouble to drill for oil squirters, when you can get a 7mgte bare block for cheap...? Do it once, do it right. Work smarter, not harder.

I knew about the head deal..Thats one of the pro's of buying a n/a motor.

And if i had access to a 7mgte long block[Not dissembled] I would just buy that.But Seems like everyone that has a long block for sale tore it apart for some reason.

 

[sparkplug619]

I believe the n/a cams really screw up your top end

 

[san supra]

after 3k the na cams dont do a good job.

 

[slow_yota]

after 3k the na cams dont do a good job.

eff, Well why is it so popular to swap them in then ?

 

[scubajtw]

nevermind

 

[IJ.]

knock sensors have 3 holes on either blocks so that is interchangable. the block and head combo also account for a .5:1 difference in compression ratio. If you really wanna go na/t get a turbo block and head...

If you don't know please don't "guess".....

Only one KS Boss on an NA is drilled and tapped, the Compression ratio difference has nothing to do with the block/head the GTE pistons have deeper dishes and that's what drop the Comp.

 

[Nghty89]

Hmm, interesting

 

[Aliass]

My 7M was a GE but it has been rebuilt as a GTE (by a previous owner) with GTE pistons rods and other such things , but it still has the NA head and cams. How bad would this actually be?

 

[stangimon]

dUDE,

Find thick head gaskets to reduce the compression. Turbos dont like N/A compression. I'm sure somebody will let you know the thickness. I really don't.
dickie

 

[deabionni]

eff, Well why is it so popular to swap them in then ?

It's not. It's only popular amongst those who don't know any better. It gives you more torque on the low end, but falls flat on it's face somewhere above 5,000 RPM. (Not very ideal for a turbo application).

All it does is shift your power band to the left.

 

[ValgeKotkas]

:naughty:

I found the thread with the dyno sheets.
With the N/A cams, torque comes on strong, but starts dying off after 3,000 RPM; and HP is down overall. It might be good for autocross, but it'd suck if you ever took it to a drag strip.

 

[Kai]

Also - all N/A cams do, is shift the powerband down approx 500rpm. Nothing more.

 

[IJ.]

dUDE,

Find thick head gaskets to reduce the compression. Turbos dont like N/A compression. I'm sure somebody will let you know the thickness. I really don't.
dickie

If you don't know why post in a TECH THREAD... :nono:

 

[Poodles]

- Oil squirters
- Knock sensors
- Intake cam

Is the turbo oil feed and drain in the NA blocks?

Also since nobody wants to look at the link ValgeKotkas posted, I'll quote it here. Notice it doesn't just move the power curve over, it completely destroys the powerband, it may feel quick on the butt dyno because of the spike, but it's going to be SLOW. You'll have to shift at 3 grand as that's where the power drops off, and that shift will drop you out of the powerband making the car slow.

I have seen much discussions over which is better to run for performance and here are the result. no A/F readings were saved to file for some reason. video page 5

Graph 1 : Turbo cams 12psi BPU(intake ,full exhaust, bov, everything else stock)
Graph 2 : N/A cams 12 psi BPU but bosch 110... a/f reading ~10.5
Graph 3 : N/a cams 15 psi BPU.... a/f ~ 11.5-12 Block off removed, stock afm
Graph 4 : N/A cams 18 psi BPU.... a/f ~ 12 " "

 

[IJ.]

- Oil squirters
- Knock sensors
- Intake cam

Is the turbo oil feed and drain in the NA blocks?

Also since nobody wants to look at the link ValgeKotkas posted, I'll quote it here. Notice it doesn't just move the power curve over, it completely destroys the powerband, it may feel quick on the butt dyno because of the spike, but it's going to be SLOW.

Bosses are all there just undrilled/tapped.

 

[Poodles]

Ah, ok, then that's another thing. Also, isn't the oil dipstick in a different place?

 

[IJ.]

Ah, ok, then that's another thing. Also, isn't the oil dipstick in a different place?

Nope it's the same, only different in a Cressida.