7M-GTE - Should I shim the oil pump?

deabionni

deabionni

The Lurker
Sep 16, 2007
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Kalkaska, MI
I recently purchased a 7M-GTE from a forum member on here, to replace the tired 7M-GE in my '86.5. I have the engine just about ready to go in, but was wondering if I should drop the pan on the GTE and shim the oil pump before installing it in the Supra.

I looked through some threads, and know that if I do shim the pump, that a 5mm shim seems to be ideal. My question is, on a GTE it seems that there is another pressure relief valve on the engine; so I'm not sure if shimming the pump would allow the oil pressure to go above 40PSI anyway.

Would it be worth my time to shim the pump while I have the engine out, or should I just leave well enough alone and install the engine as is?
 
Rennat

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
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You dont HAVE to get a new one... if your clearances are fine, and nothing is wrong with it, then just shim the one you have. i was told 5-8mm of washers is good.
 
CTsupra

CTsupra

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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You replaced a tired 7mge only to put a tired 7mgte in it's place. Buy a new 7mgte oil pump from toyota, open it up, clean out any metal shavings, check clearances and shim it. If you want to take your oiling system further, search around in jdub's oil section for a full flow oil system.
 
deabionni

deabionni

The Lurker
Sep 16, 2007
431
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Kalkaska, MI
The motor I bought doesn't sound too tired, at least I hope not.

From the for sale thread:
"The motor was put together in the spring of 07. The block was rebuilt about 30-40k miles ago with new stock parts, I picked it up from another member on here about a year ago. The head was from another motor that spun a bearing, it was checked for flatness and smoothness of all bearing surfaces before being installed.

The motor has a stock toyota head gasket with arp studs. There are stainless turbo oil lines that I got from MDC or JBL, I don't remember, and a JBL fuel pulsation damper line. It also has EGR block off plates. There's a megan racing downpipe and MDC test pipe that will also come with it. The motor has maybe 1000 miles on it since being put back together and with the new turbo on it, it should be awesome."

To me, it sounds like this motor has a lot of life left in it. The only downside that I could see with this motor, is they used an OEM Toyota head gasket instead of a MHG.
 
Buddafucco

Buddafucco

Beef Supreme
Mar 3, 2007
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It would be a good idea to reseal the oil pan to save you a headache if it ends up leaking. If your not going to replace the oil pump then just leave the pump alone. Shimming my oil pump didn't make much of a difference (if any) on the oil pressure gauge.
 
deabionni

deabionni

The Lurker
Sep 16, 2007
431
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Kalkaska, MI
Buddafucco;932243 said:
It would be a good idea to reseal the oil pan to save you a headache if it ends up leaking. If your not going to replace the oil pump then just leave the pump alone. Shimming my oil pump didn't make much of a difference (if any) on the oil pressure gauge.
Click to expand...

I planed on resealing the oil pan while the engine is out. I'd hate to get this motor installed, just to have that start leaking a few months down the road.

The threads I found on shimming the oil pump, stated that it really didn't make much of a difference on the oil pressure gauge. If that's the case, then I won't bother. If it does make a difference, then I'd rather do it while I have the chance.
 
Rennat

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
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You cant get a precise reading from the stock oil pressure gauge... if they have an aftermarket gauge then i'd believe it.

But still... its a bunch of gears turning... its not like it has some crazy bearings on the shaft with a seal around something... the oil pump is a pretty simple device.

Shim it 7mm and call it a day.
 
Buddafucco

Buddafucco

Beef Supreme
Mar 3, 2007
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Tampa Bay
That mod is really aimed at higher rpms. If you've got a lead foot and are going to take it close to redline often then you should consider it. Mine is my dd with the occasional drag racing. I wouldn't have done it but I had a different problem that I had the oil pump off for.
I got some oil pressure increase when I removed the filter housing & added oil filter relocation kit, cooler and thermostat.
 
G

Guyana00

Droppin that JZ in soon!
Apr 18, 2007
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Brampton, ON
The reason I said what I said is because you should just replace the oil pump anyways. Also, it's going to be easiest when the engine is out. According to the information I've attained while trying to learn all I can about oil I found that oil pressure doesn't matter once you have the required amount. Any increase after required amount makes a minimal difference.

But since the pump is out, washers are dirt cheap, and the procedure itself isn't hard, why not? We know that if there is any difference in performance it will be positive, if it is neutral then it's no big deal. Also, as mentioned above, the stock gauge won't let you know anyways if there is a small difference, that is, if that's what you're using still.
 
deabionni

deabionni

The Lurker
Sep 16, 2007
431
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Kalkaska, MI
Ya, I'm still using the stock gauge.

I wasn't planning on replacing the oil pump, but you guys have a good point. Better safe then sorry. I'll order a oil pump from Jeff, and when it comes in I'll shim it.

Also, do you guys know if the power steering pumps between the GE and GTE are the same? If so, I'll just tie my current pump to the frame, and reinstall it on the new engine. That way, I don't have to deal with the mess of switching out power steering pumps.
 
GC89

GC89

1J-THIS
Jun 13, 2007
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Spokane, WA
I personally wouldt waste the money on a new oil pump until I had checked the tolerances. You may find perfectly good is understatement for your pump. just my two cents
 
deabionni

deabionni

The Lurker
Sep 16, 2007
431
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0
Kalkaska, MI
Well, I'm pulling the pan on the GTE tomorrow, so I can see exactly what shape the current pump is in.

BTW, I just about have the old drive train ready to come out. All I need to do is unhook and tie up the A/C compressor + power steering pump, unhook the fuel lines and engine/tranny mounts; and it's already to be hoisted out of there.
 
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