57 or 60 Trim?
- Thread starter CajunKenny
- Start date
I just got my car running. When I bought the car the 60 was on the car without any fuel upgrades, it drives fine at stock boost while I brake the new motor in but as soon as get something else it is gone. It is less responsive and I just am not impressed at all the 57 with the same small mods that are on the car was more fun, so any one in the market for a 60 upgrade with low miles let me know.
A couple things:
1) MDC - :rofl: @ silencing the newbs.
2) MrWOT - you're talking in terms of instantaneous snapshots. Yes, porting the turbine housing increases the A/R, which allows for less backpressure in the manifold.
Please keep in mind, the engine is in a very fluid equilibrium with a hundred variables (current air temp, fuel quality, baro pressure, humidity, etc) - you ALWAYS leave headroom to deal with the 'extremes' in any or all of these variables.
That said, how many people do you know possess the right equipment to port the turbine housing, without disrupting the laminar flow of the exhaust gases? I guarantee you that ruining the flow will destroy any and all gains made by ever so slightly increasing the A/R of the exhaust housing.
If you truly want to increase the flow potential across the turbine, then minimize the backpressure downstream of the turbine - this is why using a 3" elbow increases your spool so well. This is also why so many are adamant about leaving the stock reversion damn in the head/exhaust manifold area - there WILL be a large amount of pressure before the turbine - there is little to be done about it, so increase the area behind the turbine wheel.
3) csnow - the 60 trim is not the same as the 60-1 wheel
MrWOT - Please don't take this as a personal attack, but when you post information, avoid posting it as 'fact' - I'm going to ask that you leave it very much open to discussion, as a bit that you've posted in the past has been close to truth, but still inaccurate. I hate spreading misinformation
1) MDC - :rofl: @ silencing the newbs.
2) MrWOT - you're talking in terms of instantaneous snapshots. Yes, porting the turbine housing increases the A/R, which allows for less backpressure in the manifold.
Please keep in mind, the engine is in a very fluid equilibrium with a hundred variables (current air temp, fuel quality, baro pressure, humidity, etc) - you ALWAYS leave headroom to deal with the 'extremes' in any or all of these variables.
That said, how many people do you know possess the right equipment to port the turbine housing, without disrupting the laminar flow of the exhaust gases? I guarantee you that ruining the flow will destroy any and all gains made by ever so slightly increasing the A/R of the exhaust housing.
If you truly want to increase the flow potential across the turbine, then minimize the backpressure downstream of the turbine - this is why using a 3" elbow increases your spool so well. This is also why so many are adamant about leaving the stock reversion damn in the head/exhaust manifold area - there WILL be a large amount of pressure before the turbine - there is little to be done about it, so increase the area behind the turbine wheel.
3) csnow - the 60 trim is not the same as the 60-1 wheel
MrWOT - Please don't take this as a personal attack, but when you post information, avoid posting it as 'fact' - I'm going to ask that you leave it very much open to discussion, as a bit that you've posted in the past has been close to truth, but still inaccurate. I hate spreading misinformation
Supra_Villan;892618 said:
Not the same as a 60 trim, but Ive got a 60-1 w/10 degree clip on the exhaust side here. Been running 20+ psi for YEARS and havent had a single problem aside from traction and blowing off intercooler pipes. Ive made 371 RWHP still running crazy rich (READ - AFR's in the 10s). Get a turbo timer and a good BOV and you'll be just fine. I run an old school HKS turbo timer and a HKS SSQ BOV, no problems, shaft play is still just as good as the day i recieved it. Make sure you warm up and cool down the turbo, baby it before and after you run the car hard.
sounds good, thanks for the info!
p.s. just curious, how would a built and .20 over bored bottom end with a polished crank and a 3 inch dp(no catback:biglaugh: lol) do in terms of laggage?
p.s. just curious, how would a built and .20 over bored bottom end with a polished crank and a 3 inch dp(no catback:biglaugh: lol) do in terms of laggage?
MrWOT;881296 said:Sorry, my misunderstanding. I meant that best power is usually at about ~13:1 with all else said and done so long as you keep things from melting and have the proper swirl/cc/pistons to keep preignition at bay. Most people run richer to use the cooling effects of the added fuel, I tend to run things on the lean side, I'm saying it's a bonus that you don't need as much extra fueling for that margin of safety as the cylinders will run cooler. If you don't push things that hard to need the cooling, you will still benefit from the increase in VE
I'de rather be rich and retarded, than lean and broke.
To the op, 57 trim.
Supra_Villan;907585 said:
My exact setup. Lag feels like the stocker to me, the turbo hits quick and hard. Traction will become your biggest problem.
Hey! Where's the guy that started this thread, "CajunKenny"? I've not seen him, what, for the last five pages... Van
