2JZGE-T with 7M Electronics...Build/pics/writeup

[yankiwi]

OK here's the plan............

First, a big thank you to the guys that have done this already and offered awesome info about this swap. I have read every page of these guys threads.. hottscennessey, Supra87t/t4, p5150 and others....

I have been thinking of doing this for quite a while, and over the next month or two I am going to try and document this swap to maybe help others. I plan on taking tons of pics and hopefully get a lot of info in one place for reference. I think this is a great swap option for the MKIII and if you are planning this or already doing it jump in with your experience.

Here is my beast right now, 89 red NA. Currently NA-T on the 7mge. Will be coming out shortly:icon_cry:

Here's the transplant. 2JZGE from a 95 SC300. Picked up from iamshawn locally with 85,000 miles on it.

 

[yankiwi]

OK, I am already a couple of weeks into this project so I will post my progress.

I picked up a full gasket set, stock TT 1.3mm headgasket and ARP studs. I stripped all the crap off the 2J, cleaned it and prepped for the headgasket. I was happy to learn that you don't NEED to machine the block/head for the MHG install. Many 2J NA-Ter's have had good success. I did check for damage and straightness. I also cleaned it very well.

Why a 1.3 mm H/G??? Well it will give a compression ratio of 9.2-1. Down from stock 10-1. This may be too high for some peoples taste, but I like it this way. Tuning will be key, and for me the better off boost driveability is worth the smaller detonation tolerance. Choose what works for you......

Painted the block red, because red stuff goes faster:biglaugh:

Here's my first real tip:

When you are using ARP studs, put the washers in the head BEFORE you place the head back on the block. Reason: When the studs are installed there is no room to place the washers over them, the hole in the head is narrow at the top and widens at the bottom. Washer down hole first, then put studs in!! Or you will do it twice, trust me.:nono:


Ohhh looks shiny!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[yankiwi]

Next up, I drilled the return port for the turbo drain.

All JZ upper oil pans have the casting so it is easy to do. I drilled the hole out while I had the lower pan off. I stuffed a rag behind the area to catch any debris. There is room to reach up and clean the area behind the new hole when you are done without removing the upper pan. Make sure you don't leave any shavings in the pan!!!:aigo:

Drilled and tapped the bolt holes 8x1.25mm.

Ready for the -10 AN flange

 

[Poodles]

if you forget to put the washers in (or the damn things move), you can pull the stud out and then drop the stud back in

looking good so far, gonna be hard for me to keep up at the Austin meets now LOL

 

[yankiwi]

Poodles,
I could have pulled the studs, but my dumbass did it backwards. I didn't have the correct size hex to put the studs in. I checked all my standard and metric and none fit. So my great idea was to put the studs on before the head. Worked fine until I had to pull the head off again after the washers didn't go on!!!

 

[Poodles]

LOL

yeah, the BEST investment you can make is getting some decent tools, makes your life a milion times easier.

I don't have many, I just have what I need. Rachet and socket set (with allen keys and misc. bits), deep socket set, pliers, hand wrenches, extensions, gear wrench set (LIFE SAVER), good screw drive set, and two torque wrenches.

I spent quite a bit, but it's worth it over having bloody knuckles...

 

[yankiwi]

I agree poodles, I have a 12 drawer toolbox with every tool I could possibly need, except the damn hex that fits ARP studs:biglaugh: :biglaugh:

 

[Poodles]

:rofl:

does the 2J have the same clearance issues with the socket for the headstuds the 7M has? I had to dig and find an old POS 12 point that was cheap and thin walled to do mine easily...

 

[yankiwi]

Yep, the ARP's need a long thin 13mm 12 point socket. Craftsman make one that is perfect part # 50670. It's 3/8 drive.

You also need a weird tool to remove the stock bolts. It is a 10mm 12 point star shaped hex drive. I couldn't find one anywhere, toyota sells it as a SST but it's $$$$$. I carefully used a 10mm 6 point hex and they came out OK...

 

[tlo86]

so far so good

 

[yankiwi]

Here is the rest of the pics that bring the project up to date.....

Details....

Ebay XS power type T4 manifold, 3in V-band downpipe.

HK$ clone wastegate, 10 psi spring. Will try this out, if it sucks I will go with a genuine model. Has got good reviews though so we will see.

ITS 67mm Hairdryer, Garrett cover, precision .68AR turbine housing P-trim.

Here it is just mocked up after I put the head back on. I did this so I can go out to the garage and stare at it.... It's like automotive porn:naughty:

 

[s383mmber1]

Wicked so far man!

 

[ViR2]

nice build though I would have painted block black or silver

 

[foreverpsycotic]

looks nice. why the 3in over the 3.5in exhaust?

 

[yankiwi]

Thanks guys,

Don't be knocking my red block now, just agree that red + MKIII = Awesome:biglaugh:

As for 3in over 3.5???? Well I already have a custom 3in exhaust, and it will flow plenty for my power goals..

 

[hottscennessey]

Wow, nice build! I'm impressed.. the hardest part of making a build thread is keeping on top of taking pictures, and you're definately on top of it!


I just wanted to let you know I've always admired your 7MGE NA-T. For a while I was considering doing exactly as you've did with it. Clean, simple.

I like that you're keeping a higher compression ratio. Had I done my build over again that is one thing I'd definately change. I went with the 3mm HG, not a huge mistake.. but 2mm or 2.5mm would have been perfect.

Question: 7M electronics I see.. do you plan on running the 550's with the Lexus AFM, or do you have something else in mind for engine management (MAF-T, MAF-T PRO, VPC?)

Question: Power goals?

 

[MDCmotorsports]

Keep going, we're beind you! You'll need to cut that wastegate flange off and have it rewelded though. The dump tube will either be angled towards the block or the fender well.

 

[yankiwi]

Scott - Thanks for the compliment on my 7M. I am proud of and I like it a lot, it just doesn't have enough HP potential for me anymore. Plus I enjoy the build part as much as the finished product part..so I am starting over!

For fuel management, I am leaning towards Maftpro in speed density. I considered MAP ECU but it is not as capable. I am kinda waiting to see more success from the MAP ECU 2, it might be a consideration too. Either way it will be MAP based so I can let that 4in turbo inlet eat:naughty:

HP goals are a good 400+ daily, maybe close to 500 depending on what boost I see as safe when I get to tune it. Maybe meth later, or possibly dual walbros etc and step up the fuel system. As you know, I will be on your old 550's to start so that and the single walbro will be my first limits.

MDC - Yeah, I noticed that as soon as I mocked it up. I will probably rotate the flange 90deg, I would like to reroute the dump into the D/P. Open dump gets old I think.. If I face it backwards I should be able to point it straight at the D/P and join then up easily.

 

[yankiwi]

Living 7 miles from champion toyota has a few perks...

Here's a really expensive box I bought, with a little piece of cast aluminum in it:aigo:

 

[Poodles]

you're gonna make me do a build thread of my own...

too bad I'm not building much anymore...