I really am just stating my opinion, and i do wish you all the best luck with your swap and that it will be everything you want it to be
but it looks like it is time to change your name.
but it looks like it is time to change your name.
boostadikt said:actually that is just my argument... if you put new technology into a 7m it is just as good, forged pistons, rods ect, and if you put a metal headgasket and studs in a 7m i dont see how you could ever have a hg problem again unless something was done wrong. and also the 2jz is pretty old technology as well, the motor is now completely ceased production even the GE, in order to make the 2jz the magnificent motor it is, it needs newer technology as well.
No doubt the 2jz is a far better motor from the get go but for potential, i dont think so... with the proper money invested the 7m can be just as great.
im not trying to bring you down at all, i have thought about 1j and 2j swaps many times but i love seeing a well built 7m, and you will have more power potential from a factory 2j than a 7m but again if your goals ever reach Really High #s they are on the same platform
boostadikt said:wow im glad that you read what i typed..... i said 2j's are better stock and that they have a lot more potential than a 7m from the get go, but once you get into a MAJOR build it becomes the same game.
and your guess is very wrong, i have taken them both apart many times and once you get down to the motor you actually see how similar they are, bottom end diffs............
2JZ= 86mm bore 86mm stroke
7m= 83mm bore 91mm stoke
they are very similar, it is in the head that 2j excels
i am not arguing that the 2j isn't better because IT IS BETTER, im saying people underestimate the 7m, and id like to see more of them built well.
but i really would not like to continue this, because i dont want to ruin this build thread
boostadikt said:yeah get ready for some fun, it will not be a small project for sure, but i also agree with what was previously said that it would be a good idea to mount a fmic and get pipes and exhaust ready, then you will have a bpu 2j and make 400hp
USDM cams are more agressiveboostadikt said:how are the cams and turbo's different?
CT12's are CT12's and im pretty sure they wouldn't produce different cams for the same engine, when there is no need
While the JDM 2J doesnt have an egr it does have the provisions for it on the intake. The only difference between intakes is that the JDM doesnt have a provision for the brake booster on the top. It has all the same egr crap inside its just pluged on the end with a pressed in brass plug.mobes said:USDM cams are more agressive
USDM turbo's are steel turbine wheels vs JDM ceramic
It's the same engine, but then again it's not. There are many differences. Basically, the USA wasn't under the same restrictions as Japan, so they went all out on the USA version. The JDM version does have a couple things going for it though: it has MAP airflow metering, whereas the USDM version has MAF, and it has a completely different intake plenum due to the lack of EGR.
Here is a picture of the back of the intake on a JDM 2JZ:SD2JZA70 said:While the JDM 2J doesnt have an egr it does have the provisions for it on the intake. The only difference between intakes is that the JDM doesnt have a provision for the brake booster on the top. It has all the same egr crap inside its just pluged on the end with a pressed in brass plug.
Japanese vs Export 2JZboostadikt said:for real?...... i always thought the main diff was no egr, and the MAP Sensor, i dont get why they would change the turbos and cams. that is another design and production that is not necissary. i would have thought they would just lower boost levels and detune the ECU, especially with the 440's
Of a MKIII? Yes.againstdawall06 said:so the mkiv oil pan WILL clear the crossmember?