i plan on using the stock ecu until i have some coin put aside for an AEM... but i have sum other things i have to do first... like fix the trans in my jeep haha.. gotta love setbacks, they always happen at the most inopportune times..
2jz-gte vvti in mk3
- Thread starter valhalla944
- Start date
Stinger and motech are much better standalones for a vvti engine. They have better duty cycle valve control.
Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk
Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk
so i have a quick question... im under the impression that you splice the 2j engine harness into the 7m bodt harness so you can have your gauge readouts and other body controls right????
I have a vvti 2J and I will not be running vvti because the cams are too fucking expensive. Plus I'm running 264's for this summer only and then going bigger with a built engine and higher compression. At that point the bigger cams will offset the benefits of the vvti anyway.
Mr Bojangles;1801571 said:
If you don't mind losing a ton of low end power to gain that top end power. The whole point of VVTi is so that the car can have a ton of low end torque AND have good top end power. It also helps fuel economy quite a bit. If you are going to build a high RPM motor and you don't care if it's gutless below 4000RPM, you're better off using a non-VVTi motor since they're less expensive.
Correct. It allows for 30 degrees of timing change and does give you decent overlap of the intake and exhaust. I'm running a 6266 on a .68 housing, stock compression and 264's with E85 so I should get full spool early which will help negate some of the lost low end. If you have adjustable cam gears you can degree them within the 30 degrees the vvti offers and keep the low end, but give up the upper overlap. For me the difference in keeping vvti is not worth the extra 700 dollars for HKS or Titan cams to run for just one summer. Then once big cams come into play, vvti is mostly negated.
also Chasebays.com does Brand new harness for the 1jz/2jz for any chassis. for 700 or 850 without a core. and has many options.
Aawesome... thanks for the tip.. what I wanna know is could I go with all mechanical gauges and bypass the wiring splice
Not unless you're going to wire in all you're ignition, climate control and everything else that needs power like lights etc separately. It's about a lot more than making your gauge cluster work.
You really do need to do it the right way. Wiring is massively important.
You really do need to do it the right way. Wiring is massively important.
valhalla944;1802164 said:
No. Don't do this. It is not hard at all to do the wiring, pay for the harness and be done with it.
ya after i thought about it and asked around a bit i realized that ya it'd work, but i'd also have to wire the ignition, ligghts,, blahblah blah, and ya.. I found a company out here in phx, AZ that does wiring. www.proefi.com im probly gonna have them do it for me if i dont do it myself.