Do some research on the capabilities of a proper NA-T 2jz before you dismiss it. You tube Mark Panic
1JZGTE stock vs 7MGTE stock
- Thread starter alacran1
- Start date
NA means you can run it using the existing electronics in your car for now then add a turbo when you can as I posted earlier..alacran1;1911119 said:
do you want torque or hp? I favor the 7m's mid-range torque with a few mods... just keep in mind the 1jz runs ~10 psi at stock settings w/ the turbos flowing ~304 CFM while the 7m is set at ~7psi from the factory, with the turbo flowing ~260cfm @ 10 psi. also keep in mind that the 7m makes most of it's power in the mid-range and has ~20 ft/lbs of torque over the hp figure... partly in due to it's longer stroke. (91mm) compared to the 71.5mm stroke of the 1jz. That short stroke means the 1jz is all about top end power.
actually.... you know what... I can't find flow specs on the 1jz turbos... I was looking at 2j turbos :nono:
actually.... you know what... I can't find flow specs on the 1jz turbos... I was looking at 2j turbos :nono:
mattsplat72;1911114 said:
5-6k is probably on the high side, but I'm mainly talking about if you're starting from fuck-n-scratch. Someone could easily find ways to cut cost or just buy everything second hand. I didn't mention anything about a 2JZ-GE NA-T, because he didn't bring it up, but that's another good choice. People of have made decent power just using a 2JZ/W58 on 7M electronics. Not exactly my thing though.
There's a lot of variables in there, and I didn't account for the fact that the OP is already on the west coast. Best of luck to anyone trying to find shit in TN though. If you type in 1JZ or 2JZ for Nashville and Clarksville on CL I'm the only one that has parts listed.
Here's a rough list starting from scratch for a 1JZ
-1JZ-GTE, R154, DS w/ shipping
-Clutch
-Complete gasket set
-Wiring (Your guy or Dr. Tweak)
-Walbro or Denso pump
-Swap mounts
-Belts, water pump
-Misc for power steering
-Misc for fan set-up
-Exhaust, downpipe
-proper gauges, boost controller (optional)
-Intercooler and piping (optional)
There's plenty that can be cut from the list, but shit can add up quickly. This is provided the OP is comfortable doing his own work. Not knowing anything about OP, I'd probably recommend finding everything secondhand from a local guy (part-out or unfinished) or just buying a complete car.
The best case scenario we're still talking about a stockish 7M, 2JZ, or 1JZ. Still calling bullshit?
alacran1;1910963 said:
Changing the exhaust manifold is not "Basic" Basic would be to leave it alone.
Intake, Turbo back exhaust, Intercooler are the BPU. That right there is a good $1500 spent on modification or so.
If you don't have lots of money i'd stay away from supra's all together. Just my opinion though... you'll always be throwing money into it. For the price of the car and BPU you can get a decent daily.
My Supra motto "Only the strong survive"
Cost totally depends on what your capable of doing PROPERLY. (note that I stressed that one word)
sorry to say but the one 1j is a mid to top end monster and it has better mid range power than the 7m. before you do any upgrades to a 7m, your gona spend upto a grand just to make the motor reliable. without gaining any performance upgrades. so go with something that is already reliable. and build off of that. if you want to go 7m make it reliable worry about performance later. so start with the block upgrade pistons and raise compression so you dont have to worry about going with 30+ psi to make power down the road. cause if you run a good compression like 10-1 you can boost round 15 psi or a lil more and make the same amout of hp running low compression with 30 psi which low psi is safer on the motor.
but if you have a shell and looking into which motor to run.. from 7m to 1j to 2j. go smart run the 2jzge easy to come by and looks a lot better then a turbo 7m. 7m is just a headache to worry about yea they cheap but that what you get for running something cheap, you get what you pay for. which all the lil things a problem a 7m runs into adds up of time. i have my 1j for a yr on stock twins running 22 psi everyday and i just burnt out my stock clutch. and i beat on that thing. no leaks never over heated no problems.
Yeah I am going to call bullshit a 5 to 6 k swap Especially considering he lives in LA. He would have to pay almost nothing in shipping. Any of the motors are plentiful. Quick glance at Craigslist shows a set of JZ to Xchassis mounts for 100 bucks. With all the JZ motors bouncing around he can source almost all swaps parts locally with a little effort.
Granted your numbers are slanted because you live in Nashville. But I did both swaps 7mgte and 1jzgte for under 4000 combined. I did all the work my self including the wiring and spent alot of time sourcing parts and information.
My guys harness 500
Tweaks harness 1000+
See right there 500 bucks saved by researching and not just going with the first thing you come across.
OP's needs don't warrant a R154. A w58 will handle a 1j with no issues. I ran one at 16psi for two years with no issues. So
W58+jz bell 700
R154+ jzbell 1300
Saved another 600 bucks. So just in these two examples I saved 1100 dollars. thus making you 5k swap cost 3900. So yeah bullshit. If you would like I can do a build from my area sourcing parts and post it up for you
Granted your numbers are slanted because you live in Nashville. But I did both swaps 7mgte and 1jzgte for under 4000 combined. I did all the work my self including the wiring and spent alot of time sourcing parts and information.
My guys harness 500
Tweaks harness 1000+
See right there 500 bucks saved by researching and not just going with the first thing you come across.
OP's needs don't warrant a R154. A w58 will handle a 1j with no issues. I ran one at 16psi for two years with no issues. So
W58+jz bell 700
R154+ jzbell 1300
Saved another 600 bucks. So just in these two examples I saved 1100 dollars. thus making you 5k swap cost 3900. So yeah bullshit. If you would like I can do a build from my area sourcing parts and post it up for you
No idea how you can say a 7M is cheap... my shortblock cost me just short of 3000. (thats with forged pistons, polished rods and new bearings and oil pump)
Reliable 1j or 2j? Sadly, unless you know the build personally and very well, you cannot assume that its well built. The engines and front clips from Japan have issues with being sitting for a lot of years. The one's in North America are all from Japan so if they havent been reconditioned.. your gambling.
Shell-wise, the OP has a Cressida that the engine is going into.
As a glorious owner of an old Toyota, I have found that the lowcost dreams all depend on skill level, tools and time. If your doing it yourself.. the price drops exponentially... providing your skilled enough to build it properly. (and.. not many who I have talked to in person should have touched their engines)
Experience has taught me that "cheap" and 7m or 1j or 2j are words that dont mix well. (unless you want to just drive it for fun until it drops)
Done right.. the engines can be bullet proof. Done slightly wrong, they can be a headache and make good lawn ornaments.
and.. just to throw a fly in the ointment, the OP asked.. what is the difference between a GE and a GTE. Do you honestly think he is going to have a swap done by himself?
Reliable 1j or 2j? Sadly, unless you know the build personally and very well, you cannot assume that its well built. The engines and front clips from Japan have issues with being sitting for a lot of years. The one's in North America are all from Japan so if they havent been reconditioned.. your gambling.
Shell-wise, the OP has a Cressida that the engine is going into.
As a glorious owner of an old Toyota, I have found that the lowcost dreams all depend on skill level, tools and time. If your doing it yourself.. the price drops exponentially... providing your skilled enough to build it properly. (and.. not many who I have talked to in person should have touched their engines)
Experience has taught me that "cheap" and 7m or 1j or 2j are words that dont mix well. (unless you want to just drive it for fun until it drops)
Done right.. the engines can be bullet proof. Done slightly wrong, they can be a headache and make good lawn ornaments.
and.. just to throw a fly in the ointment, the OP asked.. what is the difference between a GE and a GTE. Do you honestly think he is going to have a swap done by himself?
dude why dont you reread the beginning of your statement.. your shortblock cost you 3000.. and why is that? because you purchased it with forged piston etc. a duh it should cost you that much. a 2j stoc comes with forged pistons and you can get a 2jzge with forged pistons from the junkyard and rebuild it for half of that cost. you by a bone stock 7m for 300 bucks complete motor. and then the money you spend is making it reliable not making it faster..
hahaha yea i did just catch that whats the differents between ge and gte lmao ones turbo and the other is not is the different
MK3Hitman21;1911224 said:
In theory.. thats a good tale. In practice... it doesnt work. So many people think they can just pick up a junker and get it in this awesome running condition with huge performance for nothing. Doesnt work.
The people that can build these engines themselves get my jealousy and admiration. But they are very few. I have talked to a lot of people who have rebuilt these engines and 6 months later are selling a shell or redoing it. Its not as simplistic as most people think.
I would rather build an American V8 over a 1j/2j or 7M because the tolerances are a little looser. I have done cheap. I have seen cheap. In this world.. cheap dont work well.
I consider my shortblock a good deal considering what is in it and I could have had it rebuilt for less using OEM (and probably should have), but I talk to people, I read a lot (I mean a LOT) about all of the owner's experiences. All I find is problems after problems when corners are cut to save a buck. I personally wont walk that road because I do not have the skill level to achieve victory with my 7M. So... I bleed $$
Take what I just wrote into context and telling this guy that he can do it for 3000 is insane imo.
MK3Hitman21;1911224 said:
OP dknt listen to this guy at all. he thinks you can pick up a twenty year old engine and irs reliable. not to mention he wants you to crank up the cylinder pressures by raising compression.
you cant get any toyota engine from 7m 1j or2 j and havd it be completely reliable without doing your standard maintenance
so why is it that I see 700hp 1jzs making less torque than a 400 hp 7m? and to be clear... power on the 7m hits HARD @ 3,500rpm smack in the middle of the range (of course changing your cams/tune will directly affect your power-band)MK3Hitman21;1911215 said:
:rofl: say WAT!?!?! ahahaha too funny man. I could slap together a 7m suitable for my purposes for ~$500 and be perfectly fine making the power I want. (+400whp)MK3Hitman21;1911215 said:
in fact, my buddy just bought a fully built 7m for just that, $500 some jarhead wanted a 2j... bothered building the 7m and never used it :rofl:
^ super wrong.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?171243-722rwhp-1jzgte
400hp 7m does not have 600ft lbs of tq.
Even high hp 7m and 2jz have less tq than hp.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?171243-722rwhp-1jzgte
400hp 7m does not have 600ft lbs of tq.
Even high hp 7m and 2jz have less tq than hp.
I wasnt sure what was the difference between the gte and the ge-t, but now i do :icon_bigg
The car im going to go ham on is a 91 cressy :biggrinbo
The car im going to go ham on is a 91 cressy :biggrinbo
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