1jz stalling as soon as i give it gas??????

[mk3tattoos]

i tried getting the voltage from the FP but not sure if i was getting a right reading. i put one end into the fp and then grounded the other one, it said .6- 1.0 and when it wanted to cut out. i dont thinki was doing it right beacause the voltage never changed as i revved it.

 

[kuwugata]

i cant read fuel pressure right now, i need to get a afpr. i will check the voltage at the fp terminal of the diag block first thing in the morning.

kuwugata- the wires are to short to get them crossed on the cam sensor plug, and i think the sensors them self are the same.

Ok cool. They looked the same. i was just checkin.

 

[mkiiichip]

i tried getting the voltage from the FP but not sure if i was getting a right reading. i put one end into the fp and then grounded the other one, it said .6- 1.0 and when it wanted to cut out. i dont thinki was doing it right beacause the voltage never changed as i revved it.

Then go to the trunk and pull the cover and see what the voltage is at the pump.

The way you described was the correct way to get information. That should be the same voltage, the pump is seeing. Which should be much more than a volt.
It looks like a fuel pump control issue.

 

[mk3tattoos]

ok will do! if i run 12v from the battery with a bosh realy should that bypass the fuel pump controll? i have the walbro in there.

checked it from the rear of the car and it was at 9.56 volts. was not able to make it cut out, i will ask my wife to lend me a hand if i should try to make it cut out while reading it.

 

[mkiiichip]

Do you still have the fuel resistor and relay near the ABS unit?

 

[mk3tattoos]

yea, its still there. i have not run the 12v mod yet.

 

[mkiiichip]

Mine wouldn't even run that way. It would just fire up, then die. But i still have the stock pump.
As soon as i gave the pump 12v, runs like normal.

 

[mk3tattoos]

oh dang! ok that makes me want to do it right now then, as soon as i am finished i will report back. thanks for the help as always!

about to eat dinner and the i will do the 12v mod.

 

[mk3tattoos]

finished doing the 12v with the new relay in the rear. after i started it i let it run for a few seconds and then gave it some throttle to rev it and no bogging, did it a few more times with no bogging. let it warm up some and tried agian and it bogged. 12v mod did not fix the problem, it just revved fine because it was still in cold start mode with the high idle, but when the rpms dropped to 800-750 it bogged. my A/F's are in the low 13's now at idle. kinda rich. before the 12v mod it was at 14.5 at idle
when i rev it the af's still spike to the 20's and then go to 11's for a few seconds and raise to 13's .
still cant get any volts from the FP in daignostic box

what should i do next? thanks so much

 

[mkiiichip]

You are sure the pimp is getting 12v at all times now?

 

[mk3tattoos]

the pump is getting the 12v at all times and has lowered my af's at idle to 13.4 checked my ecu and everything in there looks good and clean.

plugs are dry and black still

 

[kuwugata]

Time to borrow someone's ecu, brosky.

 

[mk3tattoos]

when i start it cold, it does not stumble or stall when i touch the gas, untill it is up to temp.

it would be nice to get my hands on an ecu, but there are none that i know of in my area.

 

[JonoTurbo]

This is just a shot in the dark, but check to see if your intake air temp sensor on the intake manifold is any good. It works together with the map sensor to determine the amount of air coming into the engine. That might explain why it runs fine when cold.

 

[mk3tattoos]

i will check that thanks for the advice! oh, after it warms up should i just unplug the air temp sensor to see if it is working?

 

[mk3tattoos]

did alitlle testing today, i wanted to let the car fully warm up and let the ecu learn more since i always have the battery unpluged.

once cold start was done and rpms went down to 750 rpm's the A/f's were still around 12.5 to 13.0, after it was idleing for about 15min the A/F's started to rise to 14.4 and staying there. ecu is learning!

car is fully warm after another 5 min and now its time to test the throttle, first time it bogged alittle but not bad then i started to realy rev it, getting better. there is a slight stumble but it does'nt almost die. going to leave the battery pluged in for awhile and test it some more later

i just need to finish cleaning the rust off the rotors, then ill road test it.

 

[suprayo]

right on. i had problems with my air intake temp sensor a few months back. It was causing extreamly high idle. Replaced the plug on it and it idles fine now. Didnt help with the bogging down at 2100rpms though

 

[mk3tattoos]

checking my plugs again and was inspecting the coils and took off the blue rubber plugs and saw little cracks on all six! they were very hard to see, but they were there. put clear nail polish on them and tomorow i will go get the heat shrink to put on each of them.

also saw the wires on the the air intake temp sensor breaking, there not broke al the way but they dont look very good. they seem hard to fix so i will have to look into it and see what i can do about it.

thanks for all help, im still working hard to get everything working. so close.

 

[87supraguy]

i'm dealing with the same issue... car turns on idles highas soon as i touch the gas, it dies... i figured TPS... i unplugged it and it wouldn't stay on so i assume it works... rear cam sensor plug is haggard as fuck... map sensor was tested on anothr buddies 1jz and it worked... i'm looking over the entire harness but everything looks good (thanks to billy) i already did the 12v mod at the resistor on the passenger side... i'll watch for any updates and post any finding i come across.

 

[OneJArpus]

What is your alternator pumping out? I get 13.x+ and see 13.5 @ my fuel pump w/12v mod

I seeyou stated 9volts or something when you ran a straight wire. Check to see if the alt is good