1JZ Problems

[JonoTurbo]

Well today my invincible 1JZ broke down. I was driving down the highway when the check engine light came on and the engine stalled, in gear at 65mph. Now it will run for a little while sometimes, and then stall out. Sometimes it won't start at all.

My guess is that it's a fuel problem. I had the ECU open and looked it over carefully and it looks fine, caps are good, no corrosion etc. I did buy the car without a gas tank and put in a used junkyard one so i'm thinking that I may have a flow problem due to the filter/pickup/pump.

Any suggestions, ideas?

 

[Tim]

what code are you getting for your CEL?

 

[aphxero]

There's an easy way to tell if it's fuel.

Get the throttle body open and run it on carb cleaner! Just rev it and feed it fuel by hand. You're okay because it's not like it's under load or anything. one good rev.

Don't forget to have a fire extinguisher handy This is a try at your own risk kind of thing. I've had a fireball shoot out at me. Kind of scary. When I'm feeling to wussy to feed it I just spray a bunch in there and let it idle throttle closed.

So yeah, try at your own risk. Not my fault if you burn yourself I'm just saying what I would do if it were mine.

 

[annoyingrob]

what code are you getting for your CEL?

 

[Freshmaker]

My random guess: vacuum line to map sensor

 

[OneJoeZee]

My random guess: vacuum line to map sensor

That won't stop the car from starting.

 

[red87tll]

fuel filter? Little stuff like that is often overlooked... make sure the pump(s) is kicking on. if so unbolt the line and see if there is pressure..

 

[JonoTurbo]

I'm going to change out the fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the pump is moving at least some fuel, because the first time you try and start it, it runs for a couple of seconds. After that it just cranks. I think enough fuel is able to get down the lines to start it when the pump primes, but not enough to run on.

 

[annoyingrob]

Wait, it runs for a few seconds when you start and then dies? Is it always the exact same amount of time before it dies, regardless if you're letting it idle, or revving it?

If so, I can guarantee you that the fuel pump elay to switch from 6 to 12 volts has gone bad. What happens, is you start the car, it runs the pump at 12 volts for a few seconds, before switching over to 6 volts. If the 6v portion of the circuit is bad, the pump will just shut off when this happens. To remedy this, simply cut the yellow wire going to the fuel pump relay/resistor. This will permanently lock teh fuel pump in 12v operation.

 

[JonoTurbo]

Wait, it runs for a few seconds when you start and then dies? Is it always the exact same amount of time before it dies, regardless if you're letting it idle, or revving it?

If so, I can guarantee you that the fuel pump elay to switch from 6 to 12 volts has gone bad. What happens, is you start the car, it runs the pump at 12 volts for a few seconds, before switching over to 6 volts. If the 6v portion of the circuit is bad, the pump will just shut off when this happens. To remedy this, simply cut the yellow wire going to the fuel pump relay/resistor. This will permanently lock teh fuel pump in 12v operation.

Well, for the heck of it I cut the yellow wire, no difference. Thanks for the advice though.

 

[Ric]

last i checked, OBD1 doesn't throw a CEL for a clogged fuel filter, nor does broken vacuum lines.


For the engine not to start its one of 2 things... a cam position sensor or crank position sensor. As for sensors that cause CELs, those are the only two that will make your engine not run.

they are not very expensive at the local toyotaship.

 

[JonoTurbo]

I should have been more clear, I don't have any codes. The CEL just came on because the engine had stalled.

Also, the engine will start sometimes, it just won't run for long. I should add that the problem also has progressively gotten worse. At first the car would run for a little while (10 minutes or more) before quitting, now it won't run for longer than a few seconds.

 

[shlounek]

check your igniter, its happenned to me a couple of times wiggled the igniter harness and it started up.

Do you smell crazy fuel when your cranking up?

 

[JonoTurbo]

Ok, so I am throwing a code 14 apparently. Which according to the MK4 info is ignitor, ecu, or the wiring in between. I checked the wiring and it's fine. So i'm down to 2 possibilities.

 

[JonoTurbo]

Alright, so the ignitor is fine, the ecu is fine, the wiring is fine. I checked the wiring to the map sensor and it's fine too.

The car still does the same thing; the first time you go to start it it runs for a few seconds and then shuts off. After that it cranks, fires once, and quits.

Any other suggestions?

 

[desmd99]

check your ECU. open up the cover and you can find any burned or black mark.

 

[trdmk3supra]

do you have good gas in it if it has shitty gas it won't run right either.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

check your ECU. open up the cover and you can find any burned or black mark.

His ECU is fine, we put it in my car and it runs perfect, he also replaced almost every capacitor in there. We are going to try a new igniter and see if that fixes things.

 

[UkiSash]

Mike why don't you just come over his house and swap some parts out see if that works. It'd save SHIT load of time and he'll be able to figure out the problem and hit it dead on instead of playing the guessing game.

Hmm maybe today ill replace the fuel filter.... <--- we did that... well John did that lol i just sat and supervised :-D now i know why some people do nothing when they come over to work on my car.... aint much they can do im hoggin all the action lol.

Eitherway i know you got something up your sleeve John i hope it works for ya. U kno im there if you need help.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

Mike why don't you just come over his house and swap some parts out see if that works. It'd save SHIT load of time and he'll be able to figure out the problem and hit it dead on instead of playing the guessing game.

Unfortunately I can't go to far outside of Norwalk right now due to some family problems, otherwise I would be up there already.
If the code 14 didn't go away with new caps or a new igniter, then it HAS to be the wiring between.