1jz go boom!

[aphxero]

So I pulled my motor from my last cressida to check things out and here's what I find.

Cam caps are scored kinda bad, material everywhere in the motor, and oh yeh 3 out of 4 thrust washer pieces in the oil pan! I also found chunks of thrust washer in the pickup along with my rear main seal spring. Wtf?!!!!

I hope I can rebuild this sucker for under $1000 or its time to get another long block.

Pics:

Thrust washers I found in the pan

Rear main seal spring

More thrust washer material

Isn't oil supposed to be brown LOL?

 

[Bigzavs]

damn, thats pretty right there

 

[speed]

how'd you do that?!

 

[josh930]

Where did you get your motor and how many miles?

 

[aphxero]

Motor was always very clean inside and ran very well. I had a boost leak that I fixed and it went into some untuned cells (ie: mega lean 18psi). It's kinda my fault I guess. Thing always had low oil pressure and beat the living crap out of it drifting.

how'd you do that?!

I think maybe the spring came out of the seal and caused a bad sequence of events. That and driving too awesome.

Where did you get your motor and how many miles?

I got it from jdmmarket.com about 2 years ago was from a 94 soarer. Had 68k on it probably would've went forever if I left it stock. Got it hella cheap too.

Besides the problems I posted here the inside of the engine is beautiful. Still has crosshatching on the cyl walls. pistons look great as do the rods. Compression is 140 across the board. Probably due to me cooking the fuck out of it the day it blew up. About 240 deg f will do that.

So it looks like I'll need to:
New oil pump
rods/mains/thrusts
rings
Clean up crank
clean up cam journals
hone cylinders?
balance it all
Gaskets like woah

And for fun:
springs/retainers
272 cams
some nice turbo

Anyone have any idea what these parts/services typically cost on a JZ engine?

Thanks

 

[daneyan]

just get a shortblock and get it decked make sure everything's right this time put on a new headgasket and put her back together. it would be cheaper to get a shortblock than getting
"New oil pump
rods/mains/thrusts
rings
Clean up crank
clean up cam journals
hone cylinders?
balance it all
Gaskets like woah"

 

[annoyingrob]

That looks very similar to what the bottom end of my 1JZ looked like.

As you can see in my signature, there's only one logical solution


Now, the big question, what clutch were you running?

 

[aphxero]

just get a shortblock and get it decked make sure everything's right this time put on a new headgasket and put her back together. it would be cheaper to get a shortblock than getting
"New oil pump
rods/mains/thrusts
rings
Clean up crank
clean up cam journals
hone cylinders?
balance it all
Gaskets like woah"

It's true. But how much cheaper? Getting another short block is well, another shortblock. Rebuilding is a new motor. Tough decision.

Now, the big question, what clutch were you running?

Clutchnet 3xpp and 4 puck metallic.

 

[OneJArpus]

i have a 1J HG FS if ur interested

 

[88mkIIIproject]

my two cents... go new shortblock route. a "new" (properly running) bottom end gets you back to 'bulletproof from factory' in my opinion...

so i guess it depends on how much power you want out of it, if a rebuild with upgraded parts will be needed in the future, etc.

 

[p5150]

Dude - Just get a used 2jzge shortblock and up your displacement by .5. Put your 1j head on it and call it a day.

Did you do a manual swap into the cressida? Do you have an "upgraded" pressure plate? BING.

You got crankwalk. I dont think that the seal caused it - I think that your thrust washers were smashed by your clutch. movement of the crank caused the seal spring to pop out.

Your shortblock is probably fucked. I would check out the head to make sure the cams arent too scratched up and just put in on a 2j block with a thicker head gasket if necessary.

And get rid of that pressure plate. Go to a twin or triple plate carbon setup. The carbonetic triple plate comes in around 2300 or so and the double plate comes in at 1800 (I think). More clamping force is not always the way to do business with a clutch.

 

[86_sports_1jz]

dang, looks pretty bad but good luck with your build. keep us posted

 

[annoyingrob]

And get rid of that pressure plate. Go to a twin or triple plate carbon setup.

Or just run brand new thrust washers in your motor, and be happy.

 

[Dirgle]

Thats what you get for running Castro.

 

[aphxero]

Dude - Just get a used 2jzge shortblock and up your displacement by .5. Put your 1j head on it and call it a day.

Did you do a manual swap into the cressida? Do you have an "upgraded" pressure plate? BING.

You got crankwalk. I dont think that the seal caused it - I think that your thrust washers were smashed by your clutch. movement of the crank caused the seal spring to pop out.

Your shortblock is probably fucked. I would check out the head to make sure the cams arent too scratched up and just put in on a 2j block with a thicker head gasket if necessary.

And get rid of that pressure plate. Go to a twin or triple plate carbon setup. The carbonetic triple plate comes in around 2300 or so and the double plate comes in at 1800 (I think). More clamping force is not always the way to do business with a clutch.

Thanks for the input dude. I knew I shouldn't have gone so overkill ont he clutch haha. You guys are right about the "already bulletproof" status. And it's probably cheaper. So which HG are all you 1.5 guys running? The only way I'll go 2j is if it's cheaper.

I'm gonna run the head to a machine shop and have the cam journals checked. Not all of them were scratched up. The 2j cams I had in there were kind of nasty Maybe get some regrinds made and run a used block. With all the $$$ I save I can afford a decent turbo and valve springs. I'm sorta leaning towards staying 2.5l with a power band from 4000-8000 rpm.

So right now I have the head, my old divided t3 manifold, my 550s, my standalone. I wonder how a stage 3 t3 turbine with a 63mmish comp would fare with some 272's?

The clutch is already sold. It was in front of a w58 and I knew that wouldn't last. I'm switching to r154 so hmm. I need a good clutch that will withstand 400whp and high 3rd gear repeated clutch kicking and general drifting abuse. Any suggestions (ie: not $2000?)

The motor was in this thing: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47587

What ever I put together is going into this thing: http://www.jzxproject.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=1541

It's gonna be fun

 

[hottscennessey]

Wait.. it was a W58?

In that case it couldn't have been the clutch..

I say 1.5JZ w/ a used 2JZGE bottom end.

 

[garagefujimoto]

I've got a line on a Soarer 1JZ engine if you want..

 

[p5150]

isnt the w58 a push type? If you had a high pressure plate then why are you eliminating the clutch from the equation? Wouldnt you still be making pressure on the crank but in the opposite direction? Just wondering - I have never actually worked on a w58.

APHXERO - You can get a NON-Turbo GE block for cheap on your side of the state for a few hundred. Its almost the same damn thing as the GTE

 

[fstlane88]

APHXERO - You can get a NON-Turbo GE block for cheap on your side of the state for a few hundred. Its almost the same damn thing as the GTE

Yeah you just don't have oil squirters (big whoop), you'll have to drill and tap the block for oiling for the turbo(s), and it will have a higher CR, but I think the NA-T guys are running 3mm HG's to cure that.

 

[p5150]

Yeah you just don't have oil squirters (big whoop), you'll have to drill and tap the block for oiling for the turbo(s), and it will have a higher CR, but I think the NA-T guys are running 3mm HG's to cure that.

1. You dont have to drill the block.
2. Assuming your 1j head has the same CC as a 2jzge head, you need a 2mm head gasket to get ~8.5:1 on the CR.

Read my build thread and follow the links. It will tell you all you need to know.