1JZ Build..HKS...Greddy..ACT..Chrome..You Might Like It.Dont Hate :)
- Thread starter IBoughtASupra
- Start date
LOL!
It is from a Mustang 5.0. They use the same 3 wire, so you cut and wire the two black to the two white and the odd color wire goes to the blue one. 52 bucks for the sensor, extended it, and then wrapped it in the sleeving to help avoid melted wires and routed it far away from the exhaust manifold which is wrapped as well.
Sensor works fine, I had to do it for the 7M as well since the down pipe only has screw in bungs.
It is from a Mustang 5.0. They use the same 3 wire, so you cut and wire the two black to the two white and the odd color wire goes to the blue one. 52 bucks for the sensor, extended it, and then wrapped it in the sleeving to help avoid melted wires and routed it far away from the exhaust manifold which is wrapped as well.
Sensor works fine, I had to do it for the 7M as well since the down pipe only has screw in bungs.
Ehh, I like to keep what I can stock. I do have an AEM but I am not sure if it does narrowband but I already have the 5.0 sensor.
I have A/C in my car. Previous owner said it worked but had a leak and would need charging every year. I am going to charge it and put dye. Hope it does work.
I have A/C in my car. Previous owner said it worked but had a leak and would need charging every year. I am going to charge it and put dye. Hope it does work.
UPDATE: MOTOR RUNNING/ GOOD AND BAD NEWS
So now my motor is running. I had to modify the intercooler piping due to the quick spool valve and it was welded. I had the fan blade trimmed slightly to clear the upper radiator hose and filled the car with Toyota Antifreeze and redline gear oil.
BAD NEWS:
I have good and bad news. Bad news is my motor is dumping fuel. I had my Mines ECU sitting wrapped up all Winter after driving the car in the shop to pull the motor and I plug it up to start the car today and it just goes right down to a 10.0 AFR. Shit! I opened and did not see any leaking capacitors like what DriftMotion has on there site, so I am not sure if they are actually bad.
I had another ECU, a stock one, and now it runs better, but now a 13.5 AFR when started and then it goes down to a 12.5 AFR. So now I have a running motor that is dumping fuel.
I bought Aaron's kit and I am using the feed line as well but the fuel pressure is at 20 PSI but moves up when the engine is revved. The regulator has a very good vacuum source, it is a -4 line. I will see and replace the fuel filter tomorrow. It still shows 20PSI when the adjustment screw is backed out. This would cause a lean condition up top but it won't cause the rich condition down low.
Intercooler piping and intake manifold were smoked prior and after dropping in the engine there is no leak.
I have tried a different MAP sensor and that has not helped.
My idle air control seems to be working on and off but when the TPS is open, it is supposed to be closed, but when you rev and hold the engine, it will stay open and contine to suck air but that means it would leak when under boost.
I have checked for codes and there are none. I did have a code 21 before I started the motor, 02 Sensor circuit, and rewired a Mustang 02 sensor to be used for my downpipe and crossed a wire, fixed that and now no codes before and after starting the motor.
Good News:
My power steering did not work before but it works now. I rebuilt the power steering pump myself and it is good. I have very soft steering at idle and I am not using the idle up valve either.
I had the motor running and did not see any leaks, so hopefully it stays that way.
All of my gauges are working and are reading fine.
So if anyone has any other advice on why my motor is dumping fuel besides an ECU problem and if you had a restriction in the fuel system, let me know where and I will check. I will replace the gas filter tomorrow and see if it helps.
I have already ordered the DriftMotion ECU repair service and will overnight it to Aaron tomorrow.
So now my motor is running. I had to modify the intercooler piping due to the quick spool valve and it was welded. I had the fan blade trimmed slightly to clear the upper radiator hose and filled the car with Toyota Antifreeze and redline gear oil.
BAD NEWS:
I have good and bad news. Bad news is my motor is dumping fuel. I had my Mines ECU sitting wrapped up all Winter after driving the car in the shop to pull the motor and I plug it up to start the car today and it just goes right down to a 10.0 AFR. Shit! I opened and did not see any leaking capacitors like what DriftMotion has on there site, so I am not sure if they are actually bad.
I had another ECU, a stock one, and now it runs better, but now a 13.5 AFR when started and then it goes down to a 12.5 AFR. So now I have a running motor that is dumping fuel.
I bought Aaron's kit and I am using the feed line as well but the fuel pressure is at 20 PSI but moves up when the engine is revved. The regulator has a very good vacuum source, it is a -4 line. I will see and replace the fuel filter tomorrow. It still shows 20PSI when the adjustment screw is backed out. This would cause a lean condition up top but it won't cause the rich condition down low.
Intercooler piping and intake manifold were smoked prior and after dropping in the engine there is no leak.
I have tried a different MAP sensor and that has not helped.
My idle air control seems to be working on and off but when the TPS is open, it is supposed to be closed, but when you rev and hold the engine, it will stay open and contine to suck air but that means it would leak when under boost.
I have checked for codes and there are none. I did have a code 21 before I started the motor, 02 Sensor circuit, and rewired a Mustang 02 sensor to be used for my downpipe and crossed a wire, fixed that and now no codes before and after starting the motor.
Good News:
My power steering did not work before but it works now. I rebuilt the power steering pump myself and it is good. I have very soft steering at idle and I am not using the idle up valve either.
I had the motor running and did not see any leaks, so hopefully it stays that way.
All of my gauges are working and are reading fine.
So if anyone has any other advice on why my motor is dumping fuel besides an ECU problem and if you had a restriction in the fuel system, let me know where and I will check. I will replace the gas filter tomorrow and see if it helps.
I have already ordered the DriftMotion ECU repair service and will overnight it to Aaron tomorrow.
So I finally got around to pulling the motor. Why? Well the guy who did my head, saw the metal pipe in my hand that runs around the block, he asked what I was going to do with it, and I told him, I was going to my fabricator, Alfie, to have him close up a port that was used for cooling the twins. He said he could do it, so it saved a trip, so I let him do it.
I start up the motor and sure as you guys know it was running rich, but a coolant leak!?!?!?
The same port he "closed up," was fucked up. Take a look below. I actually took this picture before installing the pipe and SOMEHOW I missed the freaking little pin holes. It could not be fixed in the car and I am not a fan of JB weld. I ha to pull the motor to fix that leak and have ALFIE, fix the one thing I did not let him do for my car.
So now I install everything back into the car and took days to do the little things due to the 95+ weather. Today, I put on the starter, filled up all the fluids and went to start the car. I plugged in the AEM V2, hooked up my laptop, downloaded the AEMTuner software and viewed that all the sensors were reading, that was all good, which meant, if the standalone was reading all the sensors, so should the stock ECU, right?
I start up, and what do you know, it is still running rich! What in the world is this? I called Aaron, and he picked up, ofcourse he did, I am a big supporter or DriftMotion and he knows it.
We talked on the phone, I read some values to him and he asked about my fuel system. So I said,
Stock 370's
DM AFPR Kit
DM Dampner Line
So then he asked what is the fuel pressure with the engine running, I said 40PSI. He said it was too high. He asked what was the vacuum reading, it was -14, which he said was too low. Then I said I was running HKS 264 Cams so since they are not degreed yet, waiting on dyno tuning, they have overlap, so that would explain it and I did smoke test the whole system, which showed no leaks.
So what's next? We tried to turn down the fuel pressure, I was idling at an 11.4AFR, when I turned down the fuel pressure, it went to 12.0. Hmmmm. I set it to 27, which is what he said it should be at when the engine is running.
So I started to tune on the AEM, and I got it to idle at a super nice 14.1-14.3 at idle.
Then I got another ideal, plug in the stock ECU, see what happens.
I plugged it up, started and ran at 14.4, okay, same as last time, went down to 13.8, here we go again, then back up to 14.2, wait what? It started to idle on the stock ECU! Then when I revved it, it was running lean, so I raised the fuel pressure and what do you know, it revs and revs clean with no rich or lean condition showing on the wideband.
So, you're kidding right? I saved up to buy a AEM V2, for a month and some days, to solve a rich problem and the real problem was solved with a 14MM wrench and an Allen key? Atleast I know I can run in the motor now, upgrade fuel and if I do that buy the 15 of August, I can get it tuned!
I am letting everything cool down and I will start it cold tomorrow and see how it runs.
Pictures of the douchebag who messed up the pipe.
Maybe a video tomorrow.
I start up the motor and sure as you guys know it was running rich, but a coolant leak!?!?!?
The same port he "closed up," was fucked up. Take a look below. I actually took this picture before installing the pipe and SOMEHOW I missed the freaking little pin holes. It could not be fixed in the car and I am not a fan of JB weld. I ha to pull the motor to fix that leak and have ALFIE, fix the one thing I did not let him do for my car.
So now I install everything back into the car and took days to do the little things due to the 95+ weather. Today, I put on the starter, filled up all the fluids and went to start the car. I plugged in the AEM V2, hooked up my laptop, downloaded the AEMTuner software and viewed that all the sensors were reading, that was all good, which meant, if the standalone was reading all the sensors, so should the stock ECU, right?
I start up, and what do you know, it is still running rich! What in the world is this? I called Aaron, and he picked up, ofcourse he did, I am a big supporter or DriftMotion and he knows it.
We talked on the phone, I read some values to him and he asked about my fuel system. So I said,
Stock 370's
DM AFPR Kit
DM Dampner Line
So then he asked what is the fuel pressure with the engine running, I said 40PSI. He said it was too high. He asked what was the vacuum reading, it was -14, which he said was too low. Then I said I was running HKS 264 Cams so since they are not degreed yet, waiting on dyno tuning, they have overlap, so that would explain it and I did smoke test the whole system, which showed no leaks.
So what's next? We tried to turn down the fuel pressure, I was idling at an 11.4AFR, when I turned down the fuel pressure, it went to 12.0. Hmmmm. I set it to 27, which is what he said it should be at when the engine is running.
So I started to tune on the AEM, and I got it to idle at a super nice 14.1-14.3 at idle.
Then I got another ideal, plug in the stock ECU, see what happens.
I plugged it up, started and ran at 14.4, okay, same as last time, went down to 13.8, here we go again, then back up to 14.2, wait what? It started to idle on the stock ECU! Then when I revved it, it was running lean, so I raised the fuel pressure and what do you know, it revs and revs clean with no rich or lean condition showing on the wideband.
So, you're kidding right? I saved up to buy a AEM V2, for a month and some days, to solve a rich problem and the real problem was solved with a 14MM wrench and an Allen key? Atleast I know I can run in the motor now, upgrade fuel and if I do that buy the 15 of August, I can get it tuned!
I am letting everything cool down and I will start it cold tomorrow and see how it runs.
Pictures of the douchebag who messed up the pipe.
Maybe a video tomorrow.
Another update.
A/C works in my car. Converted, Charged, UV Dye and is blowing cold.
Car is a hardtop, so it made sense to keep A/C, plus I am the only 1JZ I know who still has A/C.
A/C works in my car. Converted, Charged, UV Dye and is blowing cold.
Car is a hardtop, so it made sense to keep A/C, plus I am the only 1JZ I know who still has A/C.
I just went threw every page on your thread and read the whole thing.All I can say is WOW! You do some great work.This wasn't just another 1J swap you had a good plan stayed with it and did a lot of nice detail work.This thread got me pumped to start my 1J swap all over again.I was thinking of selling the MKIII and my swap to get a MKIV but I think I rather stay with the sexy MKIII.
What kind of numbers are you looking for?and what type of racing are you planing on doing with the car?
What kind of numbers are you looking for?and what type of racing are you planing on doing with the car?
Thank man. I had a plan to do things to this car and the the,
"Since I am at it, I might as well,"
Thought kicked in. So I ended up going way overboard. I bought a lot of stuff new. The only thing I bought used were the coils and they had ten passes at the track and no cracks. Super new. I try to do my best and when I get my MKIV, I don't know when, it will be done even better. I don't care how long I have to save up but it will be a 3.4 stroker,.
"Since I am at it, I might as well,"
Thought kicked in. So I ended up going way overboard. I bought a lot of stuff new. The only thing I bought used were the coils and they had ten passes at the track and no cracks. Super new. I try to do my best and when I get my MKIV, I don't know when, it will be done even better. I don't care how long I have to save up but it will be a 3.4 stroker,
.
Here is a video of how it runs.
Before anyone says it, yes I am nerdy.
Edit: Whoops, Forgot to add the video.
[video]http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x287/Acurariders1325/IMG_2135.mp4[/video]
Before anyone says it, yes I am nerdy.
Edit: Whoops, Forgot to add the video.
[video]http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x287/Acurariders1325/IMG_2135.mp4[/video]
Last edited:
IBoughtASupra;1743691 said:Another update.
A/C works in my car. Converted, Charged, UV Dye and is blowing cold.
Car is a hardtop, so it made sense to keep A/C, plus I am the only 1JZ I know who still has A/C.
what components did you swap out for new parts? dryer? condenser? I'm trying to get a list going to get my a/c running.
Congrats on getting your car to run properly!
Great work, you have good taste. Lots of similar aspects to my build.
I welded up that same port on my coolant bypass pipe, and even though the weld was good, it leaked from one of the nearby joints. They were apparently brazed, and the weld got hot enough to cause a leak there. I sawzalled the leaky one out and replaced it with a 2JZ-GE pipe.
I welded up that same port on my coolant bypass pipe, and even though the weld was good, it leaked from one of the nearby joints. They were apparently brazed, and the weld got hot enough to cause a leak there. I sawzalled the leaky one out and replaced it with a 2JZ-GE pipe.
bluemkiii;1743925 said:
Thanks and I did not swap anything out for the A/C. The previous owner did it and said it worked but had a leak, so I changed out the O-Rings with R134 O-Rings and charged it up and used some dye to show a leak if there is any.
If you want to make your A/C cold. Change the dryer and condenser. After that, see how the system works.
mobes;1743940 said:
Thanks man. I try. I have to take the cluster out once again because I probably missed a plug back there since it won't light up when I turn on the park lights. As soon as I go to position 2 on the stalk, the outside lights come on but the interior lights don't light up and the cluster does not light up and same thing with the climate control. Didn't do that before!
That happend to me too Andy, It was the taillight fuse, The rear tail lights wont work, brake lights will, but tail lights wont. I had Issues with it shorting out when I fist did my junction box wire tuck
---------- Post added at 08:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:07 PM ----------
its hooks up to your cluster lights
---------- Post added at 08:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:07 PM ----------
its hooks up to your cluster lights
Albert;1744072 said:
I will check the fuse, the failure light comes on but all lights and signal lights work.
toyotanos;1744087 said:
I will check that, didn't even pop into my head and sure enough, I had that panel off this weekend too.
Absolutely blown away.... This thing is INCREDIBLE!! You give me hope that one day I can do a build of this caliber. The diligence, preparation, thought, determination, and execution and hard work are unlike any that I have seen. Not to mention how sexy a 1J looks all dressed up and shiny with proper parts. You make my in-progress "stock" JZA70 swap look like toddler's play
Definitely can't wait to see dyno specs for this beast. Keep up the stellar work.
Definitely can't wait to see dyno specs for this beast. Keep up the stellar work.