1jz black smoke and bad idle

[chris_2jz]

If it is not connected properly. You are not making boost, so you either have a major boost leak or a turbo that is on the way out. You coils can cause you to break up in high RPM. Did you try another set?

Not yet the only guy I know with coil's drives an mk4 but he's not reliable havent received a phone call back yet so I'm stuck for now. Ill see what I can do tomorrow and get back with a response. Thanks man

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[Radial]

Thanks for the tip. Do you by any chance know what I should be getting at the ecu plug for the o2 sensor I read a diagram and it said W5 is for the oxygen sensor which looks white and at the plug its white with green I'm getting no readings at the ecu plug (W5) nothing at the plug either. I am getting power with key on for both heater wires and while running one turns ground. Also if anyone could help with this: So far i've removed the FCD and installed copper top plugs gaped to.28 and put in a 89 o2 sensor and I'm noticing a big power loss, I can't rev to 7-8k while boosting like I used to and I used to be at 10psi running off wastegate spring and now I'm only getting about 5psi. Any idea? Thanks in advance.

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If there are no voltage-readings at the sensor-wire, you have a wiringproblem. check resistance between ecu pin and o2 connector in engineloom. o2 sensors have a tendency to get stuck when they fail(at a certian voltage), no voltagereading is very unusual.
Powerloss is common when ignotion/fuel mixture is fucked, you need to get this missfire/o2 problem sorted first.

 

[chris_2jz]

If there are no voltage-readings at the sensor-wire, you have a wiringproblem. check resistance between ecu pin and o2 connector in engineloom. o2 sensors have a tendency to get stuck when they fail(at a certian voltage), no voltagereading is very unusual.
Powerloss is common when ignotion/fuel mixture is fucked, you need to get this missfire/o2 problem sorted first.

What kinda readings should the o2 pin at the ecu have? Can I slice in power or ground to W5 and force it to work? Or should I assume there's something funny with ECU? Thanks again

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[Radial]

The sensor itself creates a voltage (0,3-0,8v) on the signal-wire after theese oxygdn conditions in the exhaust;

"Rich mixture causes an oxygen demand. This demand causes a voltage to build up, due to transportation of oxygen ions through the sensor layer. Lean mixture causes low voltage, since there is an oxygen excess."

So since you cant read any voltage(you must be 110% shure about the correct pin on the ecu, as i dont know the US spec JZ pinouts, and try a proffesional voltmeter) you either have a wiringproblem so that the sensor-voltage does not reach the ECU, or your o2 is dead as a bug.

 

[Albert]

as i dont know the US spec JZ pinouts.

 

[Radial]

The pinout is different on US spec 1jz and JDM spec 1jz's Albert... im running my 1J in a JZX90 Mark II....JDM all the way. For drifting purposes only, not street legal anymore.

Or to edit myself: At least the MK3 supra-pinuts are very different from my JZX loom

 

[Albert]

My point was there is no US spec 1jz.

Jza70
Jzz30
Jzx90

 

[chris_2jz]

The sensor itself creates a voltage (0,3-0,8v) on the signal-wire after theese oxygdn conditions in the exhaust;

"Rich mixture causes an oxygen demand. This demand causes a voltage to build up, due to transportation of oxygen ions through the sensor layer. Lean mixture causes low voltage, since there is an oxygen excess."

So since you cant read any voltage(you must be 110% shure about the correct pin on the ecu, as i dont know the US spec JZ pinouts, and try a proffesional voltmeter) you either have a wiringproblem so that the sensor-voltage does not reach the ECU, or your o2 is dead as a bug.

Im following this diagram and it says W5 is my o2 sensor and im using a snap-on auto ranging mulitmeter and I'm not getting any voltage from W5 the heater plugs are getting voltage but not the signal. Ill check when I get a chance report my findings. Ill be checking for continuity from the sensor plug, to the harness plug, to the ECU and see if im getting any voltage from my signal wire on the o2 sensor

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[Radial]

Sounds like you got yourself a plan!
Remember, Pinouts from Toyota always display the Female side of the connector. (in your case,the wiring-side, not the ecu-side of the connector).

 

[chris_2jz]

Ok so I checked out the wiring and im getting continuity from the o2 sensor harness (ecu side) to the ecu (W5). So since the wiring is good it's safe to say I just picked up a o2 sensor? And that I should just buy a new one and everything should be fine?

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[Radial]

You mean;
You have checked the wiring from the o2 connector in the Enginebay, to the ECU to have continuity? (less than 0,1ohm?)

And you have measured the signal-voltage@the o2 sensor-connector in the enginebay to 0,0v? (after 1 minute@ idle)

You can check that your instrument actually CAN read theese low voltages.... you just test it on any car with a "single signal-wire" o2. All Voltages are the same.

If everything adds up to No voltage from your o2, then you just need to replace it. (and yeah, then you have picked up a bad o2 form whereever you got it )

 

[DHeath0013]

Yea I already cleared my codes, cars been sitting for like 2 weeks waiting for ecu to come back from DM. I can try the coil packs but it seems unlikely that all six would go out, only reason I say that is because the car acts as if they all went out I cant even get it to rev pass 1-1.3k when I go WOT (in neutral, car is undrivable) I takes forever to reach 500+rpms

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I too sent my ecu to AARON (&*^$ for the same problem. When it came back two weeks later they had just repackaged it. So same problem. I opened up the ecu and nothing was done. There was dielectric gel all over the board under the caps. So I sent it back. When I got it back it ran for one ignition cycle and back to same issue. I opened up the ecu and that (*&%*&#er had just soldered new caps in without cleaning any gel off..I mean some of it was still wet, there was gel in the solder with the new caps. You could just wipe half of it off. So I bought my own tools and learned how to do it myself and presto, did it right. that *&^%$^er shows no pride in his work and is just a parts re-placer. Double check his work and dont let him touch your stuff EVER...p.s. he won't refund his work cause he's a douche. The gel was creating a path for electrons to jump traces.

OPEN UP UR ECU AND CHECK HIS WORK!

 

[DHeath0013]

Seriously, I had the same exact problem that you have described.

-black smoke
-would not idle on its own
-would not rev past 3500 rpm
-no power

Some steps that may help.

Remove the cover on the side with the flying lead of the ecu.
Remove the screws holding the board in place.
Gently pull back on the board until its upright and you can see inside.
All Aaron does is re-place parts even though he advertises that he fixes damages to the board. So check the board to make sure it wasn't damaged and needs further repair. You are looking for any gel that has accumulated on the board under the caps or any damages/contamination to the traces.

 

[chris_2jz]

Seriously, I had the same exact problem that you have described.

-black smoke
-would not idle on its own
-would not rev past 3500 rpm
-no power

Some steps that may help.

Remove the cover on the side with the flying lead of the ecu.
Remove the screws holding the board in place.
Gently pull back on the board until its upright and you can see inside.
All Aaron does is re-place parts even though he advertises that he fixes damages to the board. So check the board to make sure it wasn't damaged and needs further repair. You are looking for any gel that has accumulated on the board under the caps or any damages/contamination to the traces.

It was my map sensor being short circuited by my bad hks fcd. Removed fcd and problem solved

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[Albert]

So I was right?!?

Winnnnn