1jz black smoke and bad idle
- Thread starter chris_2jz
- Start date
It is highly likely to be your coils. I have seen this issue many times. If you decide to pick up a set, I have some for sale. DO NOT PM ME unless you are sure it is the coils.
Have someone or another car to swap over a good set and see.
Have someone or another car to swap over a good set and see.
IBoughtASupra;1770382 said:
I have a friend with a mk4 ill ask him. But the only input I have is, this never happen when I had the working fcd. im starting to think there's a good chance my o2 sensor's been bad for a while cause I know my air/fuel mixture gauge runs off the signal wire and that thing stopped working 2 month ago?
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Also a while (4 months?) back I checked my coil packs and I saw cracks at the stem so I put crazy glue on the cracks and put heat shrink on the coil stems.... Just thought i'd throw that out as to a bad idea or not bad?
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Take off your FCD! You wont need a FCD unless you're over 15psi. It intercepts the voltage from the map and lowered it so the ecu never sees the 4.2v. My Aem FIC did the same thing with the map clamp. Lowered it to 3.2 so you never hit boost cut.
If your at 10psi it won't matter. I guarantee your FCD is messing with your map sensor causing it to run like shit...
If your at 10psi it won't matter. I guarantee your FCD is messing with your map sensor causing it to run like shit...
Uhm yeah your fcd is trash cus the purpose for fuel cut is when u go to lean for the factory map it will cut the fuel to stop it from getting a chance to blow up ur motor please remove it and sell it asap thanks and no ur u2 sensor will not have nearly enough effect on ur car to make it sputter FYI after u remove the fcd check for damage to wires incase of weak connection from sensor to ecu that will cause a sputter but ur glue and heat shrink on those coil packs will only hold for so long
Ok so heres what u should do
Remove fcd
Check wires
Swap coil packs to test
Than if nothing changes
Do this start ur car and began unplugging sensors while it's running leaving just map and crank plugged in till u see a difference in the way the car revs up for the fact that u might notice something else that could be going bad Try these things in this order
Ok so heres what u should do
Remove fcd
Check wires
Swap coil packs to test
Than if nothing changes
Do this start ur car and began unplugging sensors while it's running leaving just map and crank plugged in till u see a difference in the way the car revs up for the fact that u might notice something else that could be going bad Try these things in this order
I wish my freaking car was doing this oh my gosh I can't even do anything other than idle :'( I haven't even gotten the chance to hear it rev let alone turbo spooling open waste gate flutter tire spinning nasties!
Good luck hopefully u are at the end of this journey of a headache!
Good luck hopefully u are at the end of this journey of a headache!
Great to hear you sorted out the FCD/MAP problem, and got the car running again.
But remember chris.... you have probably been cloging your sparkplugs bigtime with the fucked MAP/FCD-setup. (running rich as hell, black smoke)
Clean your plugs, or by new ones. Hotest tip you'll ever get.
Regarding o2:
it's a 3-wire o2.... two wires are for heating (same colours), and one is often white or blue...thats the signal wire.
You should clean the 02 with water, and dry it with a hairdryer or something similar.
A Narrowband o2 is working between 0,3 and 0,8 volts (signalwire to ground). when engine is running, it should be flexing up and down between 0,3 and 0,8v.
If it does so, it works. But you need a very quick responding Voltmeter, as it changes within half a second. If your o2 is stuck @ lets say...0,3v it's fucked. And your ECU will throw a code, as the voltage is not flexing anymore.
The ECU will also throw a code if the Heating-wires dont create a "circiut" for the current to heat the o2.
But remember chris.... you have probably been cloging your sparkplugs bigtime with the fucked MAP/FCD-setup. (running rich as hell, black smoke)
Clean your plugs, or by new ones. Hotest tip you'll ever get.
Regarding o2:
it's a 3-wire o2.... two wires are for heating (same colours), and one is often white or blue...thats the signal wire.
You should clean the 02 with water, and dry it with a hairdryer or something similar.
A Narrowband o2 is working between 0,3 and 0,8 volts (signalwire to ground). when engine is running, it should be flexing up and down between 0,3 and 0,8v.
If it does so, it works. But you need a very quick responding Voltmeter, as it changes within half a second. If your o2 is stuck @ lets say...0,3v it's fucked. And your ECU will throw a code, as the voltage is not flexing anymore.
The ECU will also throw a code if the Heating-wires dont create a "circiut" for the current to heat the o2.
Radial;1770672 said:
Thanks for the tip. Do you by any chance know what I should be getting at the ecu plug for the o2 sensor I read a diagram and it said W5 is for the oxygen sensor which looks white and at the plug its white with green I'm getting no readings at the ecu plug (W5) nothing at the plug either. I am getting power with key on for both heater wires and while running one turns ground. Also if anyone could help with this: So far i've removed the FCD and installed copper top plugs gaped to.28 and put in a 89 o2 sensor and I'm noticing a big power loss, I can't rev to 7-8k while boosting like I used to and I used to be at 10psi running off wastegate spring and now I'm only getting about 5psi. Any idea? Thanks in advance.
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If it is not connected properly. You are not making boost, so you either have a major boost leak or a turbo that is on the way out. You coils can cause you to break up in high RPM. Did you try another set?