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Without a boost controller and a properly functioning wastegate you will not hit FCO with stock exhaust or upgraded exhaust. With that turbo, you'll probably hit FCO in the 9-11psi range, which will be perfectly safe.

Clutch adjustment - http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CL&P=3 Maybe throwout bearing is getting worn out. Try the adjustment and see what it does after.

Lord Justin of Justonia

The bulge faces towards the tranny, away from the engine.

The AVCR must be providing a boost leak if it's not allowing 20psi while a MBC is. Either somewhere in it's system it's leaking boost or maybe you hooked it up incorrectly.

Also from what I understand the original radiators were available in stick or auto, but Toyota changed the design to all autos. It won't make a huge difference, besides the stock radiator is a pretty poor design (plastic). If you're modified you should seriously consider a larger all-metal...

It's fairly common for either the cam covers to leak or the CPS to leak, spilling oil onto the exhaust manifold/turbo. If you take a close look you can usually see some sort of residue where it's burning off.

If the turbo was leaking coolant that could cause problems, otherwise no. With the car cold, fill the radiator to the top and put the cap on. Start the car and start squeezing and pushing on the various coolant hoses. Generally they spring leaks at the clamp, by squeezing near it you can make...

Not sure if you can remove that stuff and reinstall it. Heat gun would be your best bet though. I was under the impression that stuff would not absorb water. Those are for the seat.

You may have gotten lucky, but usually ANY cleaning attempted on the AFM ruins it completely. Brake cleaner does leave some residue. You could have a bad knock sensor or your rewire job wasn't perfect. The ECU is very picky about the knock sensor wiring.

Flush the lines and see if that helps. Watch to see if you have any air in the lines, that could be indicative of a small leak.

No 34 won't be linked to those codes. 51 and 52 won't always come on immediately if there is a problem. It sounds like your knock sensor rewire wasn't done completely perfect, or possibly one of your sensors is going out. The other code indicates you need to realign your TPS. Both 51 and 52...

Try jiggling the auto shifter to see if that will allow it to start. Other then that, it could be a relay failure (very uncommon) or a wiring fault (also uncommon). Double check the fuse, replace it even if it looks good just to see if that helps.

Speedometer cable.

The only coolant sensor required for the car to run is the 2 wire on the side of the housing, this one reports temp to the ECU. The single wire temp sensors control the stock eletric fans, and the two wire on top of the housing is for the CSI.

Are you 100% sure your valves are in adjustment? Your problem could also be a bearing on a pulley going out. Timing belt tensioner, alternator, etc.

Your TPS needs adjustment. This definitely could cause the stutter, readjust the TPS using the TSRM and see if the problem goes away.

The backpressure won't be any worse then stock. You just won't see maximum gains from your exhaust upgrade until you replace the stock 2nd cat.

Best place is on the manifold as hellraiser456 said. In addition to the reasons he listed you also want it on the manifold for a good vacuum reading in case you need to do any diagnostics based on vacuum.

Buy some Redline MTL. You'll need 4 qts at around $8 a qt, but it's worth every penny.