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karlou426hemi, do you have an email that I can contact you for tuning my car?

An engine with a Bad AFM would have rough idle, wouldn't start that easily The engine would stall quickly under a load or quick revving

If your buddy overheated the engine, he could of cracked the cylinder head which would cause coolant mixing with the oil, but in case, the oil would be a thick brown milkshake. you should check for cracks. Normally, if an engine has coolant mixed with oil, its either a blown head gasket or a...

yes

yes, sorry I meant the AFM not MAF..haha. Thanks for pic. its hard for me to see from the pic, what color wire is the middle one? it looks like it goes from left to right, brown, solid green, green w/ red stripe, blue w/ red stripe, brown.

I need a a nice close up pic of a MAF sensor electrical connector on a late model 7MGTE. my wires were pulled out from plugin and I cannot find the wiring diagrams. thanks

Thanks for responding to my post, and sorry for checking back in a while. Well since I had that problem, I found the EMS wasn't wasn't recognizing the MAF sensor which I later solved. The car ran great until I was doing pulls on the highway and I blew the headgasket :(. recently I striped down...

Recently I've rebuilt my 1989 supra turbo's engine (7MGTE) and I upgraded to a AEM EMS 30-1130. I got the calibration file and did some small tuning and got running very good and smooth, and it drove great and it has tons of power. Just today, I went to start it up to drive it in the garage, and...

well im going to remove the AFM completely and im going to put in a wideband, hopefully this problem will resolved soon, i really appreciate all your help.

but my car continues to rev, if i dont shut it off, it would throw a rod..haha it kinda gives me the chills knowing a completely new engine is being revved to hell without a proper break in.

well i ran the diagnostic codes,21, 24, 51 ( i think 51 is a repeat). so it doesnt tell me anything useful

i will check for any open ports that weren't plugged off, but im pretty sure everything is sealed off, except for the dashpot. im going to look closer at the TB, and IAC, and i will update soon.

well I rerouted the coolant line from the cylinder head by passing the throttle body and it continues into the coolant piping around the engine block. I remember i took off the idle control valve to have intake cleaned, maybe i put something in backwards? ---------- Post added at 11:09 PM...

i just rebuilt my 7MGTE and on start up, the engine barely starts and when it does, it revs crazily by itself (not touching the gas pedal). I thought maybe the throttle linkage got sagged on something, but everything appears fine. I'm thinking the TPS is stuck or the idle control valve is doing...

hvyman, you were right, I was able splice the black and white wires on the transmission plug to jump the NSS. The engine cranked right over. the engine didnt start mainly because theres still a fuel line not connected. I believe its called the cold start injector hose, its in the middle of the...

ok, I recorrected the wiring. I placed the 2 brown and 2 white wires on the intake and bolted them down. The large wire from positive battery terminal is placed on the starter. I still do not get the engine to turn over, no click, no nothing. So i still think its something to do with the neutral...

i just traced both wires coming from the positive and negatives leads from the battery. The mystery cable comes right off the positive terminal on the battery. Can anyone take a picture of their alternator connections?

I took a picture of the cable here.

I recently bought a roller 89 supra turbo with no engine, i picked up a rebuilt 7M with a W58 i just put the engine in the bay. all the connectors plug in nicely except im trying to figure out why my engine wont crank. I'm thinking its the neutral safetly switch. so i grabbed the original shaft...