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I reused mine after I got a stuck valve, but I rebuilt the same motor and head, not sure if you want to use it on another motor or the same one. If you want use the gasket on the other motor I would advise against it, arps are fine.

Timing belt was done about 7k miles ago when I rebuild my motor.

So I just installed my 3inch downpipe and my coupler from the the 3000 pipe to the throttle body ripped so I got a new one installed. My problem is that around 4k rpm car sounds like its missing/hesitating and I hit fuel cut. It threw a code 12 and 34. I replaced my MAF and the boost is stock. I...

you pay more attention to the coolant temp than the road.

So I just got my walbro 255 in the tank and then I find out my Fuel pump relay is dead. I bypassed the relay because I am going to 12V fuel pump mod soon and was wondering why my car dies if I'm cruising at 3k rpm and I put the clutch in it will die. If I let the RPM's come down in a gear to...

Lol thanks Ken.

HKS 1.2 MHG Running all test over winter break, I have midterms and I'm 100 miles away from home. I used a HKS 1.2 MHG with ARP undercut head studs, studs were torqued to 95 ft/ lbs and retorqued to 95 ft/lbs after 550 miles.

how the hell do I have a BHG? Leme get back perform necessary tests and then let everyone know. No need to jump to conclusions, Head gasket was done when I rebuilt the motor, maybe 3k miles ago.

I forgot to state that I dont have a thermostat installed atm.

no residue at all, no bubbling in the overflow etc. my overflow cap has never popped off when unfer boost so idk.

I am going to pressure test it. I'm at school 100 miles away from home where all my tools are. Chill out.

There is pressure in the system, I have had water explode on me while opening the radiator is cap, also the top radiator hose is hard as a rock when the system is pressurized after a drive.

yes the overflow is always full. this what ive noticed, if I drive the car for less that an hour the water is always full but when I make 100 mile trips I lose about a gallon of coolant. what gives? PS-my radiator is a mizu aluminum 3 row which is maybe 4 months old and has a 16psi mizu cap on it.

So this problem has been pissing me off for the longest time. Every 3 or four days my car looses about a gallon of coolant. No signs of leaks, etc. I have a gallon of coolant and the rest is tap water in the system. I bleed the system and 4-5 days later the waterfall sound is back. I have no...

I'll try that tomorrow and see what happens.

So I hooked up my MBC two ways first wast vacume line with a T-fitting straight to where the arrow pointed. The second nipple on the MBC was set to atmosphere. It's only boosted to stock PSI. This is how I have it hooked up now after researching a little bit and it still boosts to stock psi no...

check the timing belt to see if too loose.

Well when I run my car hard I hear hissing and sizzling where the turbo water line adapter is. I have the SS lines for my turbo water lines. I was wondering if this would cause my car to overheat and lose coolant. I recently did MHG / ARP. There is not a single coolant leek elsewhere, no oil...

so I replaced my front knock sensor and reset tje code. after starting the car up, about 15 seconds later check engine light came on. the weird thing is the check engine light goes away on a warm start up but them comes right back. im guessing its the wiring? all replies are appreciated.

I've broken 3 knock sensors and I've had it! These things get so damn brittle. When it breaks, code 52 shows up and the car runs like shit. Anyone know how to bypass just one knock sensor? I'm going to leave the one behind the starter because that one has never been replaced and it's holding up...