Both cam sensors and crank sensor were replaced and it still throws the code 13. Still acts as it did. I pm'ed tubbie as directed but he hasnt answered me.
i apologize but honestly i did post there first. It said the thread had to be reviewed by the moderators/higher ups but it must not have been accepted because someone else was able post after i tried to.
Car is '87 1JZ swapped mk3. Throws code 13 a few seconds after rpm drops below 1k rpm to idle. Cranks good, starts good, drives good, idles normal even with the light on. I found 7m and 1j caodes are the same and the TSRM says:
No "NE" signal to ECU when engine speed is above 1k rpm.
areas...
well, all i wanted was about 700 to 800 by the time i am done building. Something to cruise around with later on or let some steam off. no drag or autocross so i am not worried about over heating much.
can you put 1JZ overbore pistons in a 2JZ or are the piston pin/connecting rod diameters different? anything can be done...fabrication+machining+mis matched parts = your bastardJZ
lmfao...i will jsut stick with either full 1JZ or 2JZ. Still havent gotten one yet, researching how much it cost to buy all accessories and to do swap for 2JZ. No one in ohio is selling 2JZ car that i can afford so i buy cheap MK3 and try swap myself. or buy a MK3 with 1JZ swap already...idk...
I am new to the Supras and im looking into buying a 1JZ. My question is about making a 1.5JZ without swapping the entire lower block. Since 1JZ bore is same, but 2JZ has longer stroke and the block/head pretty much bolt up...instead of buying lower block, why not just swap crank, rods and maybe...
Hay all, I am Chris from Columbus, Ohio. Im 20 and unfortunately dont have a Supra yet. I currently drive a 2001 Toyota Celica. My interests are 88,87, 89 with 1JZ or 2JZ swap. I am not made of money and no one ive seen is sellin a MKIV. Here is a pic of my celica.
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