Did you pull the motor to do the swap?
If so print this out and use it in reverse as a check list and visually and physically check each step to make sure you got everything hooked up, and didn't forget anything...
I used a DEA A6002 Center Support Bearing. The rubber and bearing are the same but need to be swapped into the OEM housing. On both the DEA and the OEM bearing I drilled out the three spot welds, popped open the housing and swapped the new part in. I then welded the three holes up where I...
The DM kit comes with a 29/64th drill bit, necessary for the tap and 7/16th helicoils.
SO
-->Drill 29/64th--->Tap 819-7--->helicoil.
Now that said, there are some concerns over the DM course stud kit. Since my engine was out when I did mine I went this route so I could use the OEM studs...
You also note that the "Toyota" emblem in the grill is spelled backward, so he inverted the image before he pasted it. The shadow was copied too, you can see the oil stain on the asphalt ends at the edge of the shadow.
edit:Just noticed that he took the supra from one of the other pictures in...
There are more shenanigans going on here than meets the eye, an image search show that one of the pics he photoshopped his car into that impot meet picture, it was originally a subaru. Not sure why he felt the need to do that.
It can be seen part way down this page...
Yes, the SPD signal that is used by the cruise control computer comes from inside the speedometer. So if you do away with it you have to find another way of generating that pulsed signal.
Also, in the search for better oil pressure on the 7MGTE I would recommend replacing the oil squirter banjo bolts. On most of these high milage motors they start leaking well before their 40PSI set point. If you have it open enough to mess with the oil pump then replacing these is a snap...
Some people don't. But since the new torque value is higher than the old one, there is the possibility for deformation. Just look at what tightening the idler pulley bolt can do to the roundness of the cylinder bore. Thousandths of an inch matter when you're talking about bearings. Metal is...
Funny enough toyota did the same thing with the 1GZ-FE motor. Wonder if there was an actual engineering reason or if it was just cheaper to pull to one of the I6 ECU's both companies are known for right off the shelf.
My grandfather raised me, and he was a mechanic for the county. So the last thing he wanted to do was wrench on his own stuff after work. So I was conscripted to do the oil changes and tune ups as soon as I could put enough torque on the oil pan bolt. Everything in my little town, in the middle...
Concerning the need, my personal opinion is, for rod bolts, yes. For the mains, no. The factory hardware is already pretty robust on the mains. As far as the rods go my trust in them is not near as high, and arp hardware is cheap insurance. But at 450hp you're approaching the edges of the...
Yes, when moving to ARP main studs you are supposed to align hone the main bores. People have gotten away without doing it but they made sure that the bores were still within spec after torquing to the new higher values with the ARP hardware. But the recommendation is still to get the block...
While this graph is good at showing the power curve of an alternator, one thing to note, for some of the less observant, is the rpms are shown for the generator shaft speed. And does not one-for-one apply to the crankshaft rpms indicated by the tach in the dash. The crank pulley is 140mm and the...
Well that's different. You have engine choices of 1G/1J/2J/7M as well as multiple V8's and you say, no, I don't want any of those. So you walk out into left field and choose a 2.0L Nissan motor. That had to be something that was just sitting around in his shed collecting dust.
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