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They sure do, we lost all 5 pumps in one shot because the power was left on after the car had run out of fuel. We're talking apples and oranges though I think, you're looking at street car systems, I'm looking at racing.

Okay, in street cars stock configuration they shut off when the engine stops, and I never said if you run it below xx the pump will die. I routinely bury the needle past E and like I said have never had any issue even losing FP, much less burning out my Walbro. The pump will burn out in short...

...when the tank is empty, the tank is empty. Whether the pump is inside it or not.

Sounds like you have something else going on, I've been running a HP Walbro for 4-5 years now at 3 bar base FP without any issue to speak of. The Bosch will burn out if you run it dry just like anything else, there are different versions but every race car I've seen run them submerged.

Absolutely, you massively overheated it over, and over again. I'd bet you damaged more than you can even imagine.

Step 1 is always to check codes, which would show if the TPS was out of spec. So start there and report back.

I've been running a Zeitronix for ~5 years now with no issue to report. The expandability for relatively low cost of their system for data logging is more than enough for me to recommend it over the rest.

I'd maybe consider going to the stock colored tail lights, I noticed on mine, despite being completely brand new that the light output, especially in Texas I'd imagine, is marginal at best during the day. Could just be my experience with idiotic Columbus area drivers though...

The car should easily be able to drive in 120* heat in stock form (radiator, fan(s), ducting/panels). Yours is either about to blow or your super cooling upgrades are not set up at all correctly. If you're running a stock temp thermostat, I highly recommend going back to a new stock fan clutch...

I think it's time to close the hood and sell your 24 year old car to someone with a clue...

If the fuel was the problem, it wasn't from octane. It'll run on 87 just fine in stock form.

There is NO disadvantage to electronic boost controllers other than initial cost.

Been very happy with my Blitz, mine is an older SBC-ID III but I'm sure they have only gotten better.

Well, no, all gauges show whatever the sender is sending. Boost guage shows 0 because there is no boost and no vacuum. LOL

Idle will depend on how much vacuum you're generating, 3.0kg/cm with just ign on sounds high - the pump isn't even running, so this figure is just what FP it has retained after the pump shut off. Jump B+ and Fp in the diag block, turn the ignition on, then adjust the pressure to 2.4kg/cm. That...

I lol'd.

"Align bore"

You didn't have to drill holes, all those places have drains already.

Running lights working does not mean the brake lights do...

Cruzin Performance is a better deal if you go with a professional cleaning service.