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Haha, not surprising. Understood. I thought that fuse would have something to do with it, simply because it was the only one that had anything to do with fuel. But it checked out, and there have been no other, newer, issues. I think now that I'm schooling in Wichita, I'll be able to...

You guys probably so this coming. Rockautoparts.com didn't send me the correct relay, so I had to keep on driving with it jumpered at the relay connection, completely bypassing the relay altogether. I drove it like this for about a week. I was driving earlier today and the car just revved down...

I checked the codes, 21, 22, and 43. 22 is the water temp sensor, and I'm thinking that the water temp sensor is just stored from the other day when I had it unplugged. So it's still throwing a 21, even though we've replaced the O2 sensor. I'll get out there and check the wire going to the...

If I did, which I may have, it's because I was on a hill with nothing better to do. Boredom gets to people sometimes, heh. Right. I've read that something else in the air flow management system can push the car into thinking that it's the O2 sensor at fault. This could be from something...

To start the car at all? Nah. The car starts (or tries too anyways) regardless of what position the switch is in. You see, I'm not entirely sure of the reason why the PO put the switch on. I asked him before I bought it, and he mentioned something about priming the pump, but the specific reason...

I honestly wouldn't know how to track it with a mutlimeter. The switch makes the relay buzz, and it helped the car to start up a bit easier on a cold start. I ever flipped it on while I was driving the car, so I can't say what happened there. The switch burned out not too long ago though, though...

Haha, common sense told me that, but sometimes it's better just to ask. Especially when it comes to electrical. I've tried poking around under the dash, and checking on the other side of the firewall, but I honestly couldn't find the two wires he used, which were red and yellow (didn't notice...

Good idea, I'll check that out. Just to be sure, should I be worried that no noise was made when I jumped B+ and FP at the connection? I wouldn't think so, since it seemed like the point was to bypass the entire assembly altogether.

Well, I noticed that when I jumped the connections at the diag box, the relay buzzed. Same as when I used the switch. But when I jumpered the connection at the relay box connection, the relay made no sound. But there was an obvious difference in driving. I haven't test driven it with the diag...

I think I got focused on something else, but I went and did it today. I jumped the B+ and FP connections, as shown here in Shaeff's diagram. I think that's what jetjock was talking about. Today was the first day I went out and drove the car with it jumpered. The engine smoothed out quite a...

Gotcha. I think I understand it now. That's something I'll check for today. The key has to be on for the switch to do it's job. So the switch would turn off the relay, which turns off the resistor, thus allowing the pump to go into high output mode, which gives the motor more fuel at startup...

The kid who owned it before hand installed a switch next to the cruise control in the dash that bypassed or 'primed' (that's what I remember him saying) it. When switched on it makes the same buzzing sound out of the relay that jumping B and FP does. The switch isn't a toggle (it doesn't say in...

Good update here. Digital mutli-meters for the win. Alright, the old multi-meter was bad. The new digital one from Lowes said that it checked out on all connections. Good. Next up was the coil pack. I couldn't get the connector off, so I had to punch through the wires (I know, I know...

I'm not sure if my distributor is fubar'd or not. When I hook the mutlimeter up to it, I get almost no reading. I changed the batteries, made sure it is zeroed, but got almost nothing when I tried to read for 10 ohms and 1k ohms. I hooked the multi-meter up to the temp sensor, and it read...

I was searching for testing the ignitor in the TSRM earlier and also read up on how to test the coil. So that's definitely on my to do list. Thanks man.

So the resistance readings are normal? I tried my best to compare it to the chart in the TSRM, but it's hard given that the temp gauge gives absolutely no indication as to what the actual temperature is. How the rougher idle when the sensor is unplugged? Heh, probably so. My parents, both Army...

Alright, here's what I got on the Water Temp Sensor. I used two alligator clips so I could keep the multi-meter plugged into the sensor without having to hold it. But one wire was a slightly larger than the other. Does this matter when measuring resistance, or are my results skewed? Hope...

Yep, that's what I meant, just using a mutlimeter to read the voltage when it's normal and when it's loabing. No jumpers, haha. We did. It's just got a USDM 7MGE dist cap on it, as opposed to a JDM Cressida 7MGE dist cap. I'm just saying that despite the rotor difference, I don't think there's...

Thanks for the response. The distributor is odd. We ordered a cap and rotor for a 7mge supra, but the kid had kept the cressida distributor from before in there. So we have the proper rotor, but a USDM 7MGE cap on there. Both caps looked pretty similar, and the car ran better with the newer...