Search results

exactly, did you even check the fuse? thats the first thing you should do. throwing parts at a car, doesnt work, just burns a hole in your wallet.

yes make sure you have it correct. just swap the hoses and see what happens. also most mbc's are shipped at the lowest boost setting. so even if you turn it up a little, it may not even be set the boost level your already at stock, just turn it up a good amount and see what happens, if anything...

not sure about the squel, i doubt its from the hose problem. just take a minute and check your belts bro. does it go away? as for your click. i dont think its your selonoid. toyota starters hardly ever go bad, its usaully just the starter contacts inside. two copper contacts. easy fix.

ok, skronny.

just read that whole thing today jdub. wow, that taught me alot.

just keep adjusting it bro, youll get it right. nice engine bay by the way, i love the black cooleze pipes. mine pipes were black as well.

which one? burg. or blue? doesnt sound like a pretty car, but as long as it runs it may be worth a few grand maybe.

it probably wont have any sever damage like that, but you should feel for shaft play. just get ahold of the wheel inside the compressor housing with your fingers, try to move it side to side, or forward backwards. forward back is bad, side to side not so bad as long as its not a huge amount of play

just try it while its in park, adjust it, give it some gas and let off. listen to your car, it should make a nice single swoosh of air. if it kinda echos then its surging. keep adjusting till you get it right.

it should boost in park. just make sure the adjustment is loose, that way it will vent. when it doesnt vent it is bad, its called compressor surge. your are building boost while accelerating, but when you let off the throttle it shuts the throttle plate, now that extra pressure has to go...

no it wont have less boost. it just lets the bov, open to vent at lower boost. if you run low boost, and have the screw tight there is not enough pressure to open it up to vent. get it?

a getrag is gonna cost you a few thousand atleast. if you really want to do a 2jz swap with getrag you better have atleast $12,000 to drop on this car. the 2jz is the beffiest engine know to man for sure, if you can afford it. you can always go with a 1jz, then later down go 1.5 jz, to make up...

wtf?:icon_conf :confused: :dunno: it lets you get past fuel cut. but its not the best way to do it. most boost = more power. you should really do some research before you start modding your car bro.

boost cut controller

nice hows that working out for you joe? :sarcasm:

you really need to read up on a 2jz, seems you have no idea of the capabilities. 450 hp on a 2jz is nothing. id say about 390 whp if you have 450bhp. stock twins can handle that power. factory internals are capable of 3x the factory rating. id say with intake, exhaust, bcc, boost...

would like to know as well. i hate not having cruise

idk, id say get a new one, or try to manuver it somewhere where it makes it tighter.

how much power you wanting? im pretty sure a stock 2jz will handle anything you can throw at it, it already has roickin solid parts from the factory. there is no reason to upgrade the internals unless you want like 900hp, or unless you like wasting money, which your swap is gonna cost you...

i love the 5spd. tons of fun. i have an auto 1jz and 5spd 7m. i dont really like the auto much on a 1jz though, they dont have enough torque to spin the tires no matter how hard i try. the 7m on the other hand, before i swapped could spin them quite easily off the line.