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Failing the TSRM (posted above), put up some photos of the engine bay. It may be something simple to spot...

Depends why the ebrake isn't functioning. Is the cable broke or froze? (I haven't seen this in a mk3 yet) Or is it just loose? (As in it works but not enough to hold the car) I think the adjustment on the handle is more for taking out long term cable stretch. If your setup correctly in the rear...

I unplugged it and it ran fine (if your talking about the switch on the thermostat housing. Replaced it with a used on later...

Got my rear driverside wheel straightened... (it was really out of round...). Found a good wheel guy for repairs very close to me... cost me 250.00 to fix the wheel, but very big difference now. Also popped on hubcentric metal rings (didn't realise I didn't have them). Took the car on the...

The only thing I know about is rotational mass. However, it's not really an issue on our 6's.

Stock is best if your not overboring the cylinders (fresh hone). The stock piston is designed specifically for the engine (wrist pin, slightly off center) and is generally good for up to 600 HP at the crank. Any piston will do, but the pin was offset simply to take into account the slight...

Thought you has a mkiv. Did you sell it? Really loved your 86.5....

Got any photos of your intercooler setup? Normally with a bead rolled piping system and good clamps (there are "not good" clamps) you shouldn't have any leaks. A smoke test will show you where its going if your dropping pressure like you describe though.

Wastegate actuator functioning properly? What are you using for boost control?

I should also mention... (and this is a hind-sight thingy...) To start with a properly built "KNOWN" Supra MK3 and build from that is usually far far cheaper than building it yourself. (of course.. depending what you have right now) You can dump 2000 - 40,000 into these cars if you want...

I used Wiseco Pistons. So far so good. If your not going over 600 crank HP, you can stay stock. ALso, I used a 1.2 Cometic MHG with ARP studs. My block was pretty clean so lapping it didn't involve removing too much. You are going to want to get rid of any corrosive pits though. If you go this...

Personally I wouldn't upgrade a thing until you get everything cleaned and running solid. Your gonna need to know where you sit before you start pumping time/money/effort/skill/hair into the car. Going BPU immediately is a good idea, but you should do a leak down/compression test to make sure...

I like how you have the sig pic in your display... Took the soup out for a romp tonight. Wanted to run it for an hour.. so went on the "freeway" (Stoney Trail and Deerfoot for those familiar with Calgary) Had a code 14 and 31 to start with... (from start up...) after reading it, I...

Thanks! Been an expensive learning experience. Lol

No.. you have so many lights and gauges and... information... distracted driving supreme! :) Love it. You need a higher resolution photo so I can really see whats in that cabin!

Um...wow. Simply wow

No videos yet. Just an update. I have the car, and have taken it out a couple times so far. Shifting the new R154 was incredibly difficult, but is smoothing out right now. Using Nashman V2.0 shifter, had it too short, pulled the rod up a bit so I had some leverage to shift properly. My only...

Yes, with some better fuel control it would have done a lot better. My fuel pressure was too high as well because I forgot that I had the Denso MKIV fuel pump. I was dead set against a piggy back, so I went full stand alone.

There is two setups listed... The one for the dyno sheet I posted the link to (BPU setup) and current. currently I am near 500

Nothing incredible really... 7mgte with wiseco pistons and MHG RC550 PL8 injectors AEM uego wideband DM AEM AFPR stock intercooler (for that dyno) LIPP Lexus AFM housing Raptor racing DDP (excellent flow) HKS EVC-S boost controller DM 57 trim ct26 HKS 3" catback EGR delete and cats removed...