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^^^ Tis true. Early models did not have the BVSV - it was a later add for this reason. It will only happen on a cold start.

Not quite the same, but performs the same purpose for night vision: http://www.atncorp.com/units/nightvision/daynight

You def need to look around the site more. You posted this in the Tech section - it is not the place for a general question like this. Thread moved - pay attention to where you post.

Moved - Question do not belong in the Intro section. Pay attention to where you post.

Sure is - that's exactly what I'm using ;)

It is more efficient - You have ops temp oil feeding both coolers allowing the greatest thermal transfer for a given OAT. In series, the 1st cooler will max out feeding lower temp oil to the 2nd cooler - the temp delta between the cooler and OAT will be much less. In parallel, you have a...

Any PAO or ester based synthetic will go 8K easy...more than that and I would send a sample to Blackstone for analysis to make sure the oil is still doing it's job. I change filters at 4K intervals and add make-up oil between oil changes.

What you described is hooking them up in a series. Parallel would go like this: Eng block oil feed ---> T fitting between coolers ---> IN on both coolers ---> OUT on both coolers ---> 2nd T fitting ---> Eng block Essentially you are treating the cooler pair as a single cooler. A T-stat would...

If you replace the seals you mentioned, you should not have any oil leaks from them - regardless of synthetic or not.

Like I said - go ahead...your motor. I have no intention of writing an engine rebuild 101 guide (which is what you are doing) and you are free to ignore everything I say - I obviously have no clue as to what I'm doing and post just to make myself feel important. Just to warn you - I have a...

I didn't tell you to have the crank turned just to flap my gums - however, it's your motor do as you will. Same for the squirter bolts - they are a Toyota item - I look forward to seeing the following thread: "Why is my oil pressure low" Followed by: "Is this rod knock?" (this will be...

Crank is the same, rods are the same - pistons are higher compression on the GE. I would replace the pistons like you intend to do. You will need new rings and the cylinders will need to be honed regardless - all this assumes the block meets spec for main bearing clearances and the block deck...

Go ahead - and enjoy the vibration produced by an unbalanced DS. You might even get to experience the joy of it cutting loose under the car.

And, hell no! Waste of $$$ - find the leak and fix it.

Was this really that hard to understand?

Flush it - right now, or stop running the motor and you might minimize the impact this crap will have. Might want to check for an answer next time - it's not like it took days to get one. Geez.

Cross that bridge when you get there ;) You must use washers (need the hole) or machine a spacer with a hole - washer OD should match the relief cylinder ID.

Shimming the pump is a very good idea - even with new bolts the squirters are a pressure bleed above ~40 psi. A big plus at high RPM.

The GC may help - what Poodles said about it's ops temp viscosity is dead on. Running a quart over is just insurance against the pump pick-up ever becoming uncovered - it will have zero effect on pressure.

Routing looks correct. Should have replaced the squirter bolts (and shimmed the pump) - if you have a weak squirter spring (or more than one), you now have a significant pressure bleed. Report to the stocks for 10 lashes ;)