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nows when the fun stuff starts, :biglaugh:

http://mkiiisupra.net/bbs/forumdisplay.php?f=42

there are 2 menu items for the lambda sensor, one to use narrowband, wideband or none. and the other where you select which wideband you are using. make sure single wideband is selected, and the correct one is selected, save the setting and you should be good to go.

just finished the Bourne betrayal, by Lustbader, it was ok, but his writing style is different than Robert Ludlums, and the books seem to have lost something. Have just started The Dark tower sereis by Stephen King again, I never read the last 2 when they came out, so downloaded them as...

iirc the factory map sensor only works upto 17psi as well, so using the factory ignitor its not unreasonable to conclude that it is at the max of its capability at that level, thats assuming the ignitor does all the dwell timings itself, I had a pm off one of the megasquirt guys who was using...

Do a full custom dash, that way you get exactly what you want. would be a lot of work, but using glassfibre is not rocket science. and bastardizing another dash in there would probably be just as much work to get it looking good.

it is a 7m tps, I altered the throttle plate so it opens the opposite way, so the tps would work,

this is mine, just waiting to go on the motor.

the guy who welded mine up, said he pre-heated it, made the job easier, I would imagine a lower power welder would benefit from this also.

Depends if she really wants to quit or not, kicking the habit because someone else wants you to, generally does not work,even with the wonder drugs.

yes you could. I have just found the 2jzgte diagram and the noise filter gets +12v from the same source

+12v live feed that is controlled by the ignition switch, and is live both when starting and running, eg +12v to the coils and injectors is hot in crank and run

switched live that is hot in crank and run

the stock cps is a bit hit and miss in that respect. I tried 3 before I found a good one for the megasquirt, the first 2 suffered badly from sync loss and random dropouts. the 3rd one is rock solid. checked all the air gaps between the vr sensors and teeth, wiring and connectors, and the vr...

as far as I remember the universal harness has 6 yellow wires for coilpacks, 1 black earth and 1 red switched live (must be hot in crank and run). so the only thing to check really are the live and earth and any associated fuse. the spare wires will be unused coil feeds.

It`s cool, if we didn`t have eggheads like these chaps, we would still be living on a flat world, with the solar system revolving round us, and heretics being burned on a daily basis.

Did you check the block with a proper straight edge and feeler gauges, after you had scraped and sanded it. And tbh having the block milled would have been a better idea.

as long as its above the min mark when cold, and its not blowing it out of the resovoir at all, you are good to go.

main culprits for the swimming pool in the trunk are:- tailgate seal, or the lip it clips onto. rear light seals. bolt holes for spoiler. bolt holes for bottom trim on tailgate glass. and when you remove the bottom trim, you will see 3 glass supports, water can also get past these.

got the gpu2 client running and the smp client on the same box, don`t even notice any change as far as the web is concerned.