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Pull the small cotter key from the pin on the MC shaft that connects to the brake pedal. Use some wrenches to loosen the lock nut, then the clevis/plunger rod for the MC can be screwed in or unscrewed by hand. Adjust it, re-tighten lock nut, push pin back through, cotter key, done. See here...

Heh, so I guess I'm a bit nuts. Anyone who knows me, knows that I'm kindof a sucker for rare parts, or hard to find parts. Super fast back-story/preface: My key for this car only works in the ignition, and the passenger door. The passenger door is tough, though- so I rely on the keyless entry...

No need to grab the entire rear subframe. The extra bracing that's added is simply bolted on, and will bolt right onto the pre '89 subframes. ;) It's just two small bars, that's it! Or, you could pull yours over the winter, strip it, and reinforce it, like mine. :) (Thanks to Slow66 for the...

That's creepy!

LOL, that's an incredibly funny mental image!

I'll poop in your shoes if you look at me like that again. Poop. Shoes. ::moebaker::

Well, heh... I'm a sucker for a good whack in the Willie. ;) You might actually end up turning me on! :love:

Holy crap, Nate. :( That sucks on so many levels! Right on, it's not about the money, it's about the parts! Make sure they know that those parts are nearly irreplaceable, and make sure you get the combined worth when all is said and done!

Trust me, I know what wasting away is. ;) Edit: Because when I bash someone's head in, I want to melt the evidence away, and turn it into bullets and fishing sinkers. ;)

Quick update. Last Saturday, I brought the black car to the scrap yard. I owned it for 6 years. The dudes at the 'yard jumped down my throat right away asking if I had a title for the car. I was like yeah, dude, I do. Calm the F down! Apparently, they've had a high number of people...

Here are a few pics of my poor Rustbucket. It was an 86.5 N/A, turboswapped, lots of goodies bolted to a crappy shell. :sigh: Brought it to the scrapyard last Saturday, after owning it for about 6 years. Edit: Yes, the car in the pics below is the car in my avatar. :(

I'd beat someone with a lead pipe if they kept badgering me about selling one of my cars. Take a moment to think about that. Lead. Pipe.

I assume you mean the fx35's? LOL. I've got two sets. One for my GF's car, one for the M3. ;) If you want I can probably find you some good deals on poopBay.

My original intention was to eliminate the stock high beams and put citylights in their location. The FX's lo/hi beam is excellent, so I could do just fine without the stock highs. I was more figuring out if I literally wanted all four headlights to be on high beam when I flick the switch...

^ Right there with you, man. :)

I did a full writeup on checking/setting timing as well. Search under my name. :) And I keep seeing people say that white smoke is always coolant. As already stated, blown turbo seals will cause white smoke. Grab yourself a hot plate, and drop a half-cap of oil on it. Note that the smoke caused...

You might want to clarify the above statement by saying that you mean manual GTE cars have the same throttle cable. N/A Manual cars have a longer throttle cable. ;)

Meh, that conversion doesn't do it for me. In my opinion, the best looking low profile setup is the NSX popups. When done properly, they look like they belong on the car. I'm trying to figure out a way to use the FX projectors in the NSX lights cut to a shallower depth to avoid cutting the core...

I wouldn't. If that parts cleaner has been used just ONE time, it's got tiny particles of dirt floating around in it. Allowing that dirt to get into the fuel injectors would not be good. If you send them to RC, they'll have them back to you in just a few days.

NEVER use someone else's tune. Even if two motors are built identically, the tunes will not be the same. What works for someone else, could potentially burn up your motor.