Search results

Go standalong (stinger) for sure over the stock ecu. I dunno how the T70 spools, but the a 67mm will make that power and come on pretty quick as well.

If you're going to buy a denso new, skip it and just buy a bosch 044.

Youre the ricer who wastes time with a honda. If youre going to street race make it something worthwhile.

Well above 400whp is very vague. Figure out what you want and then people can help you out. Sub 500whp the 7m is great, much cheaper, and makes the power fine. Above that you might start thinking about building the block, so then the $$ factor comes into play and the price difference between the...

Is your alternator cable going to the battery good? Have you ohmed it out?

Fire sleeve stuff? http://www.firesleeve.com/aerospacesleeve.html

This is horrible advice, do it once and do it right how you want it. Settling for something that isn't want you want is a waste of time, effort, and money.

I wouldn't waste the money on the ct setup if its not going to reach your goals. As I said T4 60-1 will make 500+whp on high boost, and they're not much money.

:bigthumb: to the standalone.

That must be stock, or his shit is REALLY slow. Most full exhaust LS1s fbodies trap about 110mph.

hahah, I like this Nippon-Teku guy :bigthumb: +1 to you sir...

WIth good tires i'd say they're worth 500

Stock disc with an upgraded pressure plate would hold 450whp. Stock clutch in new shape would probably hold 320-340whp

425whp is about max you'll get from a ct26 for 500hp the good old 60-1 T4

Rev higher.

GE C1 is the same as the GTE

I would not run a 255/40 up front. Go 235 or 245.

You probably just fail at setting up the boost controller. Tweak the settings and it should be fine.

What spring is in the wastegate and what does it boost? What is your boost controller set to? If its not creep and just slow acting change the Set Gain to 2-3 psi below your desired boost level and it should come on faster. Also mess with the gain and it should be more responsive.