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those are some great stories guys. i actually did it last night. i went WOT and it was sweet and i had no problems. i did race it also, and that was more fun. i do need to practice on launching. everything went smooth. it was fun! the first run...i red-lighted =0( but i didn't spin like...

lol great stories and words of wisdom guys. keep it coming. i'm considering hitting up the bridge soon(later on tonight) and going WOT in third. it's tough to go from a dig around here =0(

i have about 900 miles on my fully built 7M. it runs perfect...no problems. i have even had it dynoed and tuned. i put down 400rwhp. they went WOT with a messed up boost controller. i disconnected it, so i should only be around ~10psi of boost. but i'm just nervous to just floor it. i was...

lol that doesn't help me^^^ but i'll let you know if the 140A Alt. helps at all =0) -t3d

so me and a ase master tech went to down on this thing. checking all grounds and power supplys. we jumpered grounds and power to notice any changes. and there wasn't no change with the jumpered grounds and little to no change with the jumpered powers. i have like completely killed this...

yea i guess that's true. i have a POS craftsman DVOM that i guess i'll bust out.

well, i'm using the Power Probe 3. which is an awesome tool. i'm still getting familiar with it. all this is very frustrating. i'm going to taking you guy's advice tomorrow, i'm just trying to gather all i can before i get workin. ...and what's the starter relay mod?

i meant more than the average person. i don't know alot of things, which is why i'm askin. i get what you're saying now, but i'm running out of daylight. the tsrm says the battery voltage is supplied to that wire through the EFI relay when the ignition switch is turned on. and current flows...

are you talking about the ecu ground on the intake manifold? check the voltage on the battery terminal itself and then the B+ terminal?

alright. i'll give that a shot. if anyone has more input, jump in -t3d

grounds are perfect. metal to metal and new wires. what exactly should i check so i know what each thing reading? i want to eliminate as much as possible before i do something like this

i see what you are saying. i was trying to see what things are tied to that wire, so i know what to check but i couldn't find anything on the TSRM. i know that when the voltage drops below 12v, i can see the a/f ratio go lean because the fuel pump isn't getting enough voltage.

ok here's my problem. i am only getting mid to low 12v to the computer. when the car has been on the road for a while, it will be around high 11's to low 12's at idle. so i'm losing like 2+ volts by the time it gets to the computer. at night is the worst. when i put the headlights on it...

now that would be cool...with a hole to reach the oil filter :evil2: -t3d

Blue!

damn! that sucks! we need something to happen! -t3d

FLORIDA IS HOTT!:aigo:

sorry man. i was having a bad day. i work on cars everyday, so i gotta be in the mood to work on the supra on the weekends. i can get a new a/c compressor through my job for like $140, so i'm gonna save up for that, and then save up for the tune. i'm probably just going to install the MBC...

umm i was just curious. i haven't done anything yet. i don't have it tuned yet, cause i'm not made of money, so stick that "fail" up your ass -t3d

(copied from my build thread) here's my list of parts i can think of off the top of my head... LPPRO intercooler piping kit Lexus AFM Walbro 255 RC 550s Apexi Power intake filter Full Cooleeze exhaust system( Downpipe-back) SAFC 2 JT61GT Bolt on turbo Probe Forged Pistons Eagle Rods w/ARP...