Search results

The part number is the one from the bag, Ford was able to pull it up in the system based on that part number. As well, when I type it into google, i get lots of results on it. E8ZZ-6890-A

Just for reference, if anybody ever needs that Ford threaded pipe for the oil filter (to use a relocation kit as the stock threaded pipe is not long enough), Bob Allen Ford in Kansas has some. They quoted me $38 plus shipping. Their phone number is 913 381 2999.

Here are a few more pics of the oil filter relocation setup... Click this link to see what I have: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-bpm-202-28.php I will mention, if the part Im holding (part of the oil relocation kit with no mounting bracket holes) were to thread directly on to the...

1. Perfect. 2. I am going to go ahead and assume it is a JDM. I just dug up a picture of when I picked up the engine, and there is nothing going to that hole on the lower intake. It is a rear sump engine from a Supra though. 3. Thanks, I will look! 4. I dont mean the serpentine belt tensioner...

A few questions, I'll get right to it.. 1. I am doing a 2JZ-GTE swap into my '90 MK3. I have the BIC brackets for the engine mounts, and I ordered new engine mounts from Driftmotion. They are shorter than the stock mounts that came with the engine, and I am confused. Will these Driftmotion...

Just to throw it out there, I am running H&R springs on Bilstein shocks, all new, not used... and I find it too bouncy for my liking. Stiffness is fine, but if you hit a series of small bumps, or a road that isnt level and is kind of wavy (up and down), the front end feels like it starts...

I've been running a Mishimoto on my car for 8 months no problems. Curious, any reason you dont recommend a mishimoto?

I like that idea! Kinda neat.. Would be cool to have an original, and one with all the mods listed.

"Original" sticker... yup value of the car just went up!

Is it badgeless and headlight washer-less? Any possibility of pics? I may be interested as well.

When I did mine, I had to take the exhaust off from the stock downpipe back. The flex portion of it was so stiff it wasnt allowing the elbow to back off the studs. And yes, hitting it with a hammer in different spots worked for me.

I have tried regular ebay housings, smoked housings, and "projector" housings. All are complete junk from my experience. Buying a 7x6 housing and putting in an HID kit into them may be a cheap alternative to the stock yellow halogens, but it is just a scatter show on the road. I ran this type of...

lol! this is interesting for me, learn from others mistakes:D alright well he said there is copper stuck to the head and the block that he has cleaned off, but no black was on the head or block. does this mean the viton coating is still one with the gasket? Or like you guys said, regardless...

So 100% of the copper spray needs to be removed from the head gasket in order for it to seal? Or will it still seal if there is tacky copper spray on it?

He was under the impression a light coat is a good idea but still not necessary. So basically as long as the surfaces are cleaned again and dry, he'll be fine. Even when the head is Loosened in the proper sequence, no worries of warpage.

So Im posting on behalf of a guy I know at work doing a 2JZ swap into his lexus.. He had his head machined, cleaned the block surface, and got a new stock 2j head gasket. Used a light coat of copper spray and torqued it all down. Then realized he forgot to put the dowel pins back in. I told...

402 ft/lbs of torque at 7psi on a stock ct26 with an exhaust seems extremely high.. and at that rpm range..

Hey all Just want some good advice as to how to get the best possible finish on the block surface for a new stock head gasket. The head has already been removed and machined. As far as the block goes, scrape all leftover gasket material off with a razor blade, and then sand it? If so, with what...

LOL!!!! yes. This guy in the video irritates me...