Ditto, I build my engines with Mid to High 2 thou clearance for above 500rwhp, don't buy into the "It's not a Chevy and needs to built tight" BULLSHIT ;)
Again from practical experience gathered over 39+ years building engines.
Only time it makes a difference is for hot starts due to the way the fuel pump circuit is set up, it needs to see engine rotation before you get pressure, you could install a prime circuit something simple like a cap and a diode to give xx seconds at key on would do it, or a timer.
IG WG's are a PITA, if you set enough preload to stop the part throttle low boost lag as it blows the flapper off it's seat you then get creep up top... ok for stock or production cars, heavily modded go an External Gate every time..
Don't think you'd have an issue using that shaft, I had to take mine down quite a bit as it was tapping the Pauter Con Rods I was using...
Can't remember the end diameter I used but it was a good deal thinner than stock..
Toyota Induction harden their cranks it's a shallow process, even states in the Manual NOT to go below 10 thou and Toyota DON'T sell bearings any thicker....
I know all of this as I've "Been there done that" with my 7M, Having the Crank Heat Treated, Niterided and Straightened is a very...
You could machine a notch on the side of the rod in line with the stock rod oil holes, Have seen this done on Pauter's, I ran squirters with mine and made sure Hot idle was 40+ Psi.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.