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Its not the best idea to bring a bonded rubber component up and beyond its vulcanization point. Rubber vulcanization temp vary widely but its typically around 300-350F.

Yep. Figure out your charging system first.

Yeah best to just replace all the worn parts. You aren't going to want to take it apart later after you find the diff is noisy.

Haha that's great. Yet another reason I am glad to not visit facebook.

Uh yeah... Bearings from Toyota are not cheap for these differentials either. That's where I get mine. Tip. Don't buy any parts for this diff from a local parts store. They will be of zero help, and if they find a part they think might fit... it probably wont. The only exception, they might*...

Which generation? The MKIV?

Good ol' Jeff to the rescue! Great info. Just have to be careful stacking shims with this style carrier. Go too thin and they might fold or shift on you since the carrier has to be pressed down into the case. Wouldn't recommend using a shim < .020" for this location.

I will take the measurements later today and give them to you. Though I am not aware of any other differentials that use this size shim. Would be much easier to just source the right part from Toyota. These parts are readily available, just need to order them.

Yeah maybe appreciating from a low of $3-5k. Certainly not holding their original value. Original MSRP (on average) for a MKIII Turbo in the late 80's early 90's: ~ $25,000 Adjusting for inflation that would come out to 2017 dollars: ~ $50,000...

Yeah I don't have a problem working on all my other vehicles. Regular maintenance work is a cake walk compared to what the Supra needs. Rust remediation, sub-frame reinforcement, re engineering oiling system, casting polyurethane bushings, scratch built exhaust and intake system, complete...

Not that hard really, you just use another tool to slightly compress the clamp enough to engage the bolt threads.

Toyota did not discontinue them. I buy them regularly for the multiple rebuilds I perform. The full list of shims available and their part number. Designation T=x.xx is the thickness of the shim in millimeters. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/part.aspx?S=41334C TSRM Procedure...

Even saving on labor its a money pit. I used to track how much $ spent on parts. Gave up a couple years ago, its far too depressing when the number ends up near the cost of a 2000 era Porsche 911 or Boxter. If I didn't like the vehicle so much it would make zero sense financially to continue...

Depends on the state. Here in WI I got a collectors plate for $200 one time fee - lasts a lifetime. Don't have to pay again ever for renewal. The only limitation is that it can't be driven in January, which I could care less about, not driving it in the winter anyway. Also any "emissions"...

So true. You are either making your own parts or have deep enough pockets to throw endless amounts of money at it.

I used Ricochet Polyurethane on ebay for my steering rack. 90 durometer polyurethane with some added reinforcement material. They fit perfect and don't cost much. They say they are USA made, I can't verify this but would be a plus if true. Superpro also makes very good quality bushings. PN...

A resounding Yes.

I could have old vs new coatings analyzed on our SEM to determine composition. Toyota tended to overbuild everything in the past. Now that they have been established as a reliable brand they can cut back on cost like the rest. Old coatings were likely a thicker zinc chromate. New is probably...

Coating wont matter anyway, its always going to be bathed in oil. The new bolt design / machining does look different than the originals.

Nice! A lot of the older career guys you probably met have been retiring in the last few years. Most will be gone in 3-4 years.