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I have the 12v mod with resistor removed. The FP is good at all rpms.

Well I adjusted the TPS again and it looks dead on to what the specs in the manual say. It is going lean, 18:1 at 3900 rpm. It looks to go into open loop at 4000 as it clears right up. Lower than 4000 and at idle the afr fluctuates a lot. I am thinking maybe the O2 sensor. I checked the O2...

All other rpms the afr is good at 3800 its 14 to 15 range then at 3900 it stumbles and bucks and goes very lean. Then at 4000 to redline it goes from 12.5 to 11.5. No codes. What could cause this. Its the same place everytime. Engine is stock with afp regulator and walbro, 3 inch down pipe...

Thant fixed it, thanks for the help!!

And this is inside the booster? Can it be repaced seperate?

What could cause a booster to do this? I thought if the diaphram was leaking it would just be like manual brakes? ??

With the engine off it holds pressure when pumped up. With the engine running it goes to the floor?????

I doubt it I've done it a few times on other cylinders without issue. Ill bleed again I'm guessing there is just air trapped somewhere. Just wanted to see if the abs added anything to address.

I actually just rebuilt the stock one with new parts.

Is there a different way to bleesd brakes with abs? I put in a new master that I bench bled first all stainless lines and BBK up ftont. The pedal felt good after I bled them but after sitting for a week I fired it up and the pedal went to the floor. I get some back when I pump it but not...

Ok, so Im finally at the point of doing my alighnment. The front went fine but the rear is giving me fits. My car is lowered a few inches and on coilovers. I have the Battle Version rear camber arms, as the stock were too long, but stock toe arm. I am able to get my Camber where I want it, -.5...

Does any one if there is a rear diffuser made specifically for a 91 Supra.

Just thought I'd post this to clarify a question I had and seemed others may have had. This is a response I got about pressure drop. John, This is normal. We do not incorporate the sealing mechanism necessary to hold pressure after shut down, necessary to meet EPA EEC standards on OEM...

How did you come to that conclusion ? The ohms are out of spec and don't change under freezing to hot water temp changes. Just sits at 75 ohms.

Yes, I know. Was just found because I was going through all the testing steps of the EFI. I got a different AFM so we will see.

I took it out and put it in the freezer for awhile, ohms never move. For the thermo switch I just did a part # search on rock auto and it popped up

Thank you I will give it a shot this week. Also I checked voltage at the AFM connector and the ECU and both were 5v so Im good there. Is there anything else that would cause a code 31 ? I found a bad thermo time switch for the cold start injector as well, reading 75 ohms when cold. Expensive...

I did do those procedures and got 5 volts on the VC and the KS terminals to ground. I also tested E1 to ground and it was good.

Yes, can you tell me what I need to do?

I am sorry, it is an AFM, and I did follow those recommended trouble shooting tips. I do have 5vat the ECU and the E1 ground is good. Do you know if I tested the AFM correctly by testing the resistance between THA & E2 on the AFM? I got no reading, open circuit when i did.