I would keep it where it is on used bearings.
You could edge it up a little with a breaker bar on the pinion nut if you like at the very last assembly.
Or leave it as is.
Edit: meant extension pipe on breaker bar.
Just scratching the surface man.
The fun is when 1 change or adjustment affects 3 others.
Have to really understand the relationship between everything to hit your targets correctly.
Landing a perfect gear mesh is my peak elation on a diff build.
Once that lands into place the rest becomes...
Just be sure to maintain the solid spacer parallel trueness.
The bearings need to run straight in their bore, solid spacer maintains this.
It's not just there, hardly any shops here know how to set up a diff properly.
Most only know how to swap out bad parts and that's it.
Time is money and...
Fun right?
I regularly change shim stacks by .0005" or sometimes less.
To get changes that, small I use the difference in manufacturing between shim tolerances.
Example- a shim is supposed to be .010".
- I go through my stack of these and pull out ones anywhere from .0094 to .011
Unfortunately...
Looks like you are using the nut to pull the pinion together to check preload.
DO NOT DO THIS, you have to press the pinion into the outer bearing.
Then tighten the nut to check preload while ALL the nut threads are engaged.
The only other thing that can cause this kind of damage is if you do...
You pry the seal out or use a slide hammer.
Flat washer under the seal is the oil slinger, goes in front of the outer pinion bearing.
Can't tell pinion condition with that photo.
Needs to be clearer / closer.
You have to set pinion preload before measuring backlash on the ring.
Otherwise the dial indicator zero point wanders around as the pinion isn't holding still.
Or you build a jig or fixture to hold the pinion from moving at all while checking backlash.
Sounds like you have multiple problems...
It's the same, other than the mounting flange diameter slightly larger and triple drilled.
Does not affect the diff setup.
Original is 27 spline yes.
That flange kit is what you would want with the 29 spline R&P.
Definately not a 4.5 ratio.
Is the diff original to the vehicle?
Chassis plate on the firewall has a Gxxx code, that will tell you ratio. (Once decoded)
Year / engine will tell you.
Or can look up via VIN which cross references to the chassis code.
I doubt Weir has much gear ratios on hand...
Same thing here, lanes are only a suggestion.
I get passed regularly in construction areas on a single lane.
Everyone is angry at all times, some old crazy dude flipped me off in my residential area for going the speed limit and using my blinker.
No paitence, no respect for others.
Weird thing...
You are correct, I remember your location now.
Going to need a large press as well.
I use it to press the pinion in and out, as well as remove the pinion bearing to change the shim.
That's painful, glad you are ok.
I managed to dodge someone going through an intersection.
Luckily the person behind me was far enough back I could reverse JUST in time.
Otherwise their vehicle would have taken the entire front clip off my Supra.
These days I am always in defensive driving...
Just seeing this now but:
Who was this "pro" that "rebuilt" it?
1. Not much - its not really a crush but a deformation of the material to set spacing between bearings properly and provide a bit of pressure against the inner races of the bearings. (This provides preload)
I could take some...
Hmm..odd.
Might be due to the weaker material choices used for the open diff center.
Not sure, can't say I've ever seen that before.
I'd recommend just putting the money toward a factory LSD center, upgrade it to Weir stage 1
Last time I looked there were a couple LSD center's on ebay.
Just a...
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