I disagree (at least in Canada). Our drunk driver problem is minimal but we are pretty severe with that here. The big problem here is the friggen texting drivers. OMG I hate them. One dead 87 MK3 out there because of this.. and believe me.. I watch everyone now.
They are worse than drunk...
Im here as well.. and on Facebook although facebook is a whole mess of retards and a couple intelligent people. Identifying who's who isn't all that easy :D
I want my car to look like a MK3.. but perform like a Supra. Body mods (not massive like making it look like a corvette GTR or something...
i run 9.5" 18s on rear with 255/35r18 with +38. My quarter panel lip hits the top edge of the tire just past the tread (top part of the sidewalk) on large bumps. I'm personally not a fan of having the lip of the quarter hitting the tread which is why I say +38 to 45 to keep the tire within the...
No spacers... Your already way too far out (unless my old man brain has wandered too far).
Your offset shout be around +38 - +45. Those tires should be 255/35 r17. You could use 45, but you said low profile.
Are you running spacers already with those rims? If so, would really like a pic.
No idea who Jasper is... no way of telling what was done unless you see the original bill really. You would almost have to go in and check the torque to see what it is at. I prefer an engine with 20,000 miles over one with 5000 because any problems may not have shown yet. So hard to judge past...
It's what I ran into. Ct26 upgrades are great for just a normal setup. For true performance, I went T4 and better injectors. (Lots more to really perform). Initially I was wowed by the simplicity of the BPU path. It is great... Don't get me wrong, but now my car is a bit scary... I have to...
Good, because I am putting in a 3.73 this summer (I believe the 1988 MA70 in Canada with a 7MGTE came with the 3.91 diff which is what I believe is in mine now). Mine is a tiny bit clunky and I found a 3.73 with very low mileage (about 30k miles) for 1200 CDN.
I'm not sure if that's a good...
You have to try a good battery first. Then test the charging system (I believe someone pointed out a dead battery can short the alternator. My point about the conditioner is that the short startup takes more charge out than you put back in. Generally a dead battery can be considered a short in...
I run a 2 amp battery conditioner. It's automatic, when the charge drops to a certain level it tops it up. Otherwise my battery could freeze. You just need a cheap voltmeter to test the battery/alternator. Handy little tool.
My 9.5" is +38 in the rear. Ideally you would want +42 to + 45 offset for 10" I believe.
Most of the 10's I see stick out too far.
I'm not perfectly savvy on this yet, but I'm starting to figure it out. Still not sure what max inner space is before I hit suspension, though.
My comment is basically that I had wheels that did that on a car about 30 years ago. They looked good, as do yours, but the quarter panel lip was pretty damaged from those "oh shit" bumps I hit over time. Yours look to be in excellent shape so that would worry me. other than that, they do look...
I shortcutted and skipped standalone... Regret doing that. I'm full stand alone now and haven't looked back.
It's crucial to make sure the standalone has a good tuner though.
Piggyback is fairly good for up to 400 and possibly higher, but I wouldn't recommend it. Cammed and ported head is...
500 Rwhp on pump has to be planned carefully.
Your talking 7m so it's more difficult. The stock head isn't really built for that and one electronic glitch and your looking at melted pistons. I run on 91 octane pump (advertised, so not reliably 91), built bottom 7m and rebuilt upper (stock...
The adverse point is that too much air can decrease volume for fuel. That's the only way I can think of for air affecting power. However, if your talking air by itself, then it has no effect. Although, I can't see you asking this as a "air only" because in real world applications the only way...
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