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i know its a simple thought, do you have a lightweight flywheel, i have heard them tap at idle in neutral.

yup, nothing beats it! i took a road trip from boston to west palm beach...unforgettable. and dont forget rags or gloves...things are usually very hot when you are doing highway side work...

Hey guys, so my 1jz is currently wired for USDM 550's, and since i am running a near stock setup, or at least i am at stock boost. For gas mileage and tuning reasons, i want to put the 370's back in. what do i need to do in order to put them back in, as far as removing/bypassing...

i have heard the best thing to do is just get a 2j sensor, plug the bung for the stock one, and move the sensor to somewhere just before the throttle plate. that way it doesnt heat soak like our stupid location does...

yea, if the lights flash on the climate control, its some part of the rheostat.

I dont know how many of you guys keep an eye on this site, but the offers are closing on this one tomorrow. if i had the money i would grab it. i dont, so i figured i would put it out there. 90 black -Trevor

seems to me that it wouldnt be turbo, because if it was turbo, it would smoke after a pull reguardless of whether or not its warm... to me it sounds like valve seals. my old celica had bad seals, and it would billow smoke for a bit on startup.

i used the slow setting plastic JB

nail polish, not nail polish remover.....that could end badly. i used JB weld

cover anything fragile/ electric, and go at it. personally i am waiting until my engine comes out again

is there a reason for that hatred? or just because you dont like the look of it on the car? i am assuming there is a practical reason for not liking it.

i dont mean to thread-jack, but does anyone know of a way to easily convert down to a rectangular housing, rather than our square housing. (i believe i have heard of using pontiac housings, but i couldnt find the thread) edit, found it...

i was under the impression that the 12b's had clearance issues with the firewall

ahh great. i was assured by a toyota tech that the pre 89 cluster would work fine, as long as it was from a turbo, going into my turbo. so apparently he was wrong...f**k. if i were to simply put a 90+ pcb on my pre 89 cluster, would that work?

my car is a 90, but my cluster is an 88, should that still work? thanks for the info by the way, i really appreciate it

Hey Jon, thanks for that, i searched all over that thing but didnt come up with anything, i probably looked at that page, and did not know what i was looking at. ill see what i can do to get this thing working, and thanks again for all your help -Trevor

does anyone have a picture the two 4 pin plugs? at this point anything would be helpful. thanks

Hi Guys, I was not sure whether to post this in the 1JZ section or here, so i appologise if this is in the wrong spot. Ever since i did my 1j swap, i have not had a working Tach, fuel, or any engine data gauges. no cel, or the other three lights around it. No Clock I believe that...

Hey all, i know there is a very in depth thread somewhere on here about additives for fuel to boost octane. if i remember correctly it was a type of alcohol that is added along with a type of oil that ends in a safer than race gas octane boost. if anyone can remind me what it is...

my oil pressure is about 20psi at idle, and 55 at cruising speed, but on a cold morning on start up it will touch 90. it depends on what oil you use also. summer i use 10w-30, winter i use 5w-30 the higher the weight the higher the pressure. and i use the stock oil pressure sending unit location.