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Where are you in NY?

I will go one step further. You can polish a stock manifold but the casting lines will make it look ugly so that is why they are sanded smooth first. I had my valve covers polished and I plan to have them powdercoated. It makes the coating look smoother. Ever seen a turbo exhaust housing...

Wow. That just fits

O, okay. Did you happen to get my PM on the catch can?

Soak it with some degreaser and the wash it out with some brake cleaner. You can have a local tire shop or mechanic shop blow it out with some compressed air as well if you don't have access to a compressor.

My Avatar is if a brown girl....There is more where that one came from but I can't post them....;)

lmao!!!!!!!!!

Definite JZ.

I am thinking about getting "FATKAT" or "SMALLPNIS"

Looks good so far. Sand it some more with a heavy grade sandpaper, around 600 grit. Then when it looks smooth, do 800 grit and after that, 1000 grit. Then you can use a polishing compound with a buffing wheel. I find mothers compound to be really good.

If you are judging the fart can on being loud, it really isn't if you don't get on it. It was loud on your car since you were N/A which makes all exhausts intended for turbo cars sound louder than they are.

If your in a JZ, don't worry about being quiet. Trust me. A 1JZ at 8000 is pure bliss, never heard a 2JZ at that level in person or in car but it will be darn close....get the raptor dual tips setup.

Do you like the blue on the manifold? A gloss metallic black would really go well with your car.

The medallion is quiet at idle but it does flow. If you are looking for something quiet but will still flow when you start boosting, it is a good exhaust. Nothing beats a 3 inch or bigger full flow exhaust though.

Don't the probes come with their own wrist pins? So it should come with the right one, no?

Is that a modified eBay manifold?

Reuse the old brackets.

V1 or V2? I didn't know the AEM can do variable valve timing.

The bottom end is stock right? So just stock GTE bottom on a VVTI head? What are you tuning with?

ARP need a retorque. Everything needs a retorque. After everything is heat cycled, expands and cools, you need to do a retorque. Crack a 1/4 turn and tighten back to spec. You do one bolt/but at a time meaning, you crank one nut loose and then pull it back to spec BEFORE loosening the next...