If using a OEM head gasket, clean the block as best you can with a razor or something of that nature. If possible check the deck with a machinist straight edge, other than that, this will be sufficient for a OEM gasket to seal on the block surface. Have that cylinder head inspected by a machinist.
Started my mini project of fixing rattle as well. Poking around in the door I felt something odd.
and then....
yeah...not mine, no idea how it got there or how long it had been there.
I followed a recommendation from IJ. Straight weight 30 oil, started the engine, checked for leaks real quick, and started driving it, varying the RPMs. I changed the oil out after 50 miles, and continued to use straight weight 30 oil until about 500 miles. Thats when I switched to 10W-30 and...
Well guys, I spoke to the machinist that rebuilt the head and informed him of the issue. He seemed very surprised, basically stated he remembers my head and that the guides were in good shape to use. He suggested that perhaps I use OEM Seals over aftermarket, and offered to order me four at his...
Ever since my rebuild ive been burning oil on Cylinder 4. After a leak down, and compression check Ive determined that the source of the oil leaking is from the valve stem seals. I found the one of the seals on the exhaust side were very loose fitting. The head was rebuilt and upon inspection...
Stock head bolts are fine. Id find out what the mechanic torqued them to first. If it was the factory 58ft lbs, then since its early on in the rebuild you can retorque them to 72ft lbs.
As long as the compressor never ran low on oil you should be fine not replacing those. Ive never gone that far into it, I just end up replacing the seals.
I don't mind getting it for you, I would need money in advance though. So long as you can trust me. I also recommend a seal protector/installer so you don't damage the shaft seal upon install.
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