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Hose is to throttle body.brown clip is to starter. Ground the wire that is next to brown clip wire (bolts to the intake) .

Good luck lol

I had a spare N/A motor with 350'000 put a hg on it and arp studs and turbo electronics and 75 shot of nitrous I ended up driving it for 5 years no problems till the pump went out at the track went 2j after that but I think the 7m is a very reliable motor with proper maintenance and good hg and...

I think an ease way would be a step up dc to dc convertor 12v to 18v or 20v to feed the coils should give a little hotter spark I haven't tested tho

I posted the wiring for the coils on post 21 I don't want to post how to wire ignitors yet I want to test fully so there isn't a 1000 people out there getting turned in the wrong direction witch is understandable but pm sent to you supraguy@aol

That's what I am figuring out right now waiting aem install to see exactly what it can do without playing with the gap to much I know when I boosted a mustang I had to gap down to 15 crazy tight but these motors are quite a bit different

This setup is morganson cop follow his post for install instructions and more info all I am doing is wiring differently and using two ignitors instead of one I am still testing this setup I will post when I am done testing.

no problem glad to be of service

Locate the theft deterrent box near the steering column fire wall area. Cut the blue/orange wire and ground it.*Remove the theft deterrent box. it is a small black box maybe 2"x2.5".

If you want to stick with the in tank design wal bro 400 works if you go with the out of tank I prefer aeromotive 1000 I would also get some adjustable cam gears to help with the timing. As for the fuel rail I have used a tap to accept A/N fittings just make sure you clean fuel rail inside and...

100% correct

I have always preferred aem or some type of full standalone one thing that I am anxiously waiting to play with is the infinity ecu but i have seen some good things done with maft pro and map ecu its all what you on what you choose. Make sure you are getting proper fuel psi from the pump check...

First thing that comes to mind is timing is off you need to figure out why the car won't idle at all with cams a tdc it may be a little lumpy because of the cam change but that shouldn't stop it from running. Also test pump and run 12volt mod.P.S I would also like to say first :biglaugh:

I understand you don't want to go MLS but you really should and tq to 80lbs that's my 2 cents. It saves you from having to do it again down the road*if*decides to go out again on you. I am not trying to say it won't work but I am just not a fan of fel-pro style hg on a boosted car best of luck...

I don't see that being an issue there just make sure you don't over do it and use high temp fipg.

from what I remember using that ignitor it will only fire 2 coils can't really remember tho

I understand what you are saying there. Correct me if I am wrong here when you wire in parallel the volts will stay the same but half the current and when wired in series will half the voltage but the current will stay the same this is why I decided to try running two ignitors. hints higher...

runs fine so far no sign of cut out at 14 psi I just picked up aem v1 when I am ready to install that we will see what the coils and ignitor setup works above that the turbo I am using is a t76 wired this way I am losing some current but I am able to supply them with full 12v instead of 6v give...

thank you for info I will be painting the car in a professional paint booth so I hope I won't run into any of those problems but my luck when it rains it poors ya know

do you know if it was reduced already or did you reduce the whole galons be fore spray