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Holy crap I remember this thread! Nothing much to add aside from it runs and I'm getting ready for a big year! New coil bracket and a couple 1ZZ-FE Corolla coils should keep me from overloading my ignition system this year. Waiting on responses from shops to make the exhaust system...

AC delete works if you don't care/do't want A/C. Personal preferance. Defogging can be tricky though. As for the shroud, its best to have it, but people have run without them. Every car is different, but Toyota put it there for a reason.

My experience has been going more aggressive rear end (4.30) lost me a bunch of traction. Last year with the 3.73 I ran 11's but once the 4.30 went in the traction dropped off hard. Once the boost came up the tires didn't have the traction to hold it. I was at 564 last year and it will...

Lookin good!

Whoo!

Whoo! Happyfunstufftimes are ftw!

Easiest thing you can do at this point is to find a factory repair manual and go over everything you've done, comparing to the manual as you go, hopefully something stands out as you go through the procedures!

I use IS300 coils and since they were designed for ISO plugs, I use denso K20R-U's gapped at 23 thou. If you use factory 7M coils and wires, you will need JIS plugs- something like a Q20R (stockers were PQ20R's) remove the P and you get regular copper/nickel plugs. I am unfamiliar with the NGK...

Its the only 27mm hex with 2 wires coming out of it. Reverse light switch is the name if you have access to a manual. TBH I wouldn't go into a transmission unless I had a comprehensive repair manual for these kind of situations. Too much stuff inside that can go awry. :(

Make sure the shifter lever is properly seated in the shift shaft gates, its a tricky process to get it together properly on the first try. Also check to make sure the reverse shift shaft isn't engaged- pull the reverse light switch out and see if the ramp is up- if it is, you need to pry the...

I will be there!

Not sure if the ignitors changed during that period, I own a 91 so take that with a grain of salt. Were it me diagnosing the issue in the shop, I'd think it might be an issue with the GE-GTE swap. Some spot in the wiring that works sometimes, but not all the time. I've also had issues with...

The tach runs off of the ignitor's tach/RPM/IG- signal. The ignitor creates that signal based off of what the ECU is commanding it to do. The circuit is exclusive to the tacho, so the cruise has nothing to do with it. You need to check to check the wiring to the check connector, ignitor, and...

OP's question has been answered.

A 1JZ has an entirely different sensor setup as compared to a 7M, and you cannot use any stock 7M ECU to control any 1JZ. You will either need a stand-alone computer or the 1JZ computer. The harnesses will not interchange, either. This is all applicable unless your car has some form of a...

It's a step down because MAP based systems are not as exact as MAF based ones. Speed-density takes the MAP and IAT readings, then applies them in a mathematical equation and comes up with the fueling it thinks the engine should have. MAF just looks how much air mass is moving into the engine...

Those are the only two measurements you need! :D The hex size just depends on the bolt manufacturer. Factory bolts have 12mm heads, but I've seen everything from 10mm to 15mm heads on M8 hardware!

You won't find a 'kit' for our intakes like you would a traditional V-8. You just need a bunch of M8x1.25 bolts of the correct length. Add a couple studs in there for easy installation and you're set!

I installed new valve stem seals on a 2JZ that had ~1/2 of the seals not installed and it didn't use almost any oil... I'd be looking at the rings closely- likely oil control rings carbon'd up and seized into the ring grooves.

Ooh, that's a good one!