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nice work Zavs, I like it a lot

from your local Toyota dealerships parts counter

ok, I used a 22 Ohm resistor and it ran at about 30%, and a 15 Ohm resistor kicked up to about 50-60%. I ended up with a continuos (switched) supply from the 22 Ohm, and then the 30 Ohm line will be controlled by a cicuit set to temp on my Stinger ECU. Seems to be good set up. I'll write...

I came up with a better solution last night after I thought about it last night. I'm going to shim the solenoid so it runs at about 30% all the time, then wire it into my ECU to open 100% at 190 degrees.

got it open, now all I have to do is determine the correct resistor to put in line to reduce it down to 2-3 volts, or maybe even a potentiometer under the hood.

you can run GE pistons just the same, as long as you run a thicker head gasket to lower the compression

^^werd! 650 continuos HP is a shit ton.....

yeah, motor is/was running. I tried both a 5v & 12v lead, and nothing. I spoke to Aaron, and in the morning Im going to try shimming the solenoid with crush washers in order to mechanically open the valve. If that doesn't work, I will try to remove the solenoid all together and cap it to see...

best. Post. Ever!!!!! :icon_bigg I was in the Army in the early 80's to the mid 90's, then I got out and was a practicing structural engineer / construction manager (BS in construction management & a MA in engineering), then I realized that I missed being in the Army, so I joined again in Jan...

just like it was said before, replace everything rubber. Definitely the clutch, Rear main seal, take a look at the harmonic balancer (replace the front main if removing the HB), vacuum lines, gaskets, and ensure everythingis sealed up & not leaking. It's easy to replace on an engine stand, but...

ok, tried putting 12v to the yellow/blue, no luck, the fan still free spins. Then I tried to ground the yellow/red to the neg battery terminal as well, thinking that since the hydrofan ecu wasn't in place, the circuit wasn't complete, still no luck. WTF? This is why I HATE wiring. The...

Holy crap, that's pretty cool :icon_bigg

ok, thanks Jono. I'm throwing a 2ohm, 25w resistor in it (Aarons recommendation), but I didn'y know it was a 5v lead, so thanks for the heads up.

anyone?

there are two lines, yellow/blue & yellow/red, an if I read the wiring diagram correctly, the yellow/red is the 12v & the yellow/blue is the ground. I've tried to run a 12v lead from the battery to the yellow/red, but the solenoid isn't opening to turn the fan. Being an electrical dummy...

Not that Im aware of

LOL, calling slacker Jay....:biglaugh:

Hey Grim, can I be added to the 1jz (1.5 I guess)? I hit 458whp, Jay has the dyno sheet, so hopefully he can post it.... 1.5JZ, 67mm w/ .68 hot side @17psi, 680cc top feed injectors, 1zz coils, 2jz cams, Stinger ECU, Tial 44 wastegate & BOV, 3" SS exhaust w/ rerouted dump, 4" I/C, aeromotive...

no problem at all Jay :-). Yesterday was a fun ride home, a lot more torque than I expected. I'll get it sorted out, no worries