If you really did want to do something like that, you could get a hydraulic pump (power steering pump), Hook it up to a two way valve (like on a hydraulic log splitter), then run it to a couple (or four) cylinders on each side of the car. It really is not hard to do at all, if you have access to...
Exactly. I actually have a stock turbo pump, that is in great condition and only 80 thousand miles. Let me know if you would like to take it off my hands for a reasonable price. No rust on it, and the inlet still has a perfect in tank filter or whatever they are called.
The reason these can...
I had the same problem you are having.
Anyone that says it is the tail light seals is not reading what you wrote. He is stating that the water is coming from the hatch cover, as in the one that is on the hatch under the spoiler when you lift it up.
I am going to say check your wiper arm seal...
Shoot. They sold already. They would have been a good deal tho. They were for 50. Sorry I got your hopes up.
IJ can you post some pics of how you reinforced? or was the enforcement in those ones above?
I want to get an idea of how I am going to do it when I do.
Edit: I think I can see where...
I am going to be upgrading to the Ronnie K ones when I do my other subframe. There is actually a guy selling the poly spacers (not alum, or the Ronnie K's) on the for sale section ither on here or SF just to help you out a bit.
I have mine done. I havent lowered my car back to the ground yet tho, as I am waiting fr my new rotors to come in. I will let you know how it is once I get it back on the ground.
They really arent that bad to do. All you have to do is take out the back drive shaft, and unbolt the two 14mm bolts...
It feels amazing I know. You are lucky it was just your pressure line.
Did you end up using a factory replacement, or did you go with a driftmotion line?
If you went with factory how hard was it to snake through where the subframe and motor are at? I went with the DM line, because I know it...
I bet if you throw it on it will leak pretty bad.
Good luck, make sure you replace the crush washers, and tighten the hell out of the bolts, as I put mine on pretty tight, but still leaked. I had to go back and tighten the hell out of the bolts, as they did not crush the crush washers well.
Yes, it is called rebuilding your rack. Look and see if it is one of the lines tho before you go out any buy a new rack. I thought my rack was bad, but it was just my high pressure line.
There is two strips I know of in Iowa that are any good. One I believe is a unprepared 1/8th, and I haven't heard anything good about it really, besides all the hondas and mustangs are there. And one is a 1/4, but it is so far away that we will have to make plans to go there. Hopefully we can...
If you are that worried, and don't want to spend any money on an alarm system. Just sell the damn thing to one of those people that keep asking you. Get a car you don't have to worry about, and be done. There isn't a point in having a vehicle IMO unless it gets driven.
I just like the UZ, because it is something different than just throwing a LS into the engine bay. It would be easy to assemble and get parts for a LS true, but I think it would take a bit of work to get it into the engine bay. Maybe I am wrong on that part tho since you said it is narrower. I...
True sorry.
I believe there are much better candidates to use for a LS swap than a MKIII. I am against a V8 swap into a MKIII unless it is a 1UZ, but if OP wants to do it, it is his car. I would just like to see the outcome (build thread). I believe the I6 motors have enough potential for OP's...
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