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I have the HKS dragger and I love the sound of it. It isnt too loud nor is it as raspy as some of the others I have heard. it was kind of pricy though but I guess it is completely up to personal preference.

Like I said the black wire your talking about goes over to the other side of the car and connects to the Alternator. There is a little black plastic box over there with a black wire going in and coming out going to the Alternator. The cut wire you see goes from there across the front above the...

I remember that wire the black one I mean that he pictured there. From my swap that one goes from there next to the battery and crosses all the way to the Alternator on the other side it is the ground for the Alternator itself. I had to make a new wire to go across to the other side because it...

How much boost you running? Also have you changed the fuel injectors? I can get about 14 PSI out of my stock setup because the injectors just arent big enough to go any further. As for boost cut, if it pulls real good then it just feels like the boost and power are gone you probably are hitting...

Mine blew the same cap and I replaced it with the another with the same tolerances. drove fine for a while and then Poof blew a diode on the other side of the board and now she sitting on jackstands waiting for the standalone to be finished. I spoke with numerous people about getting it fixed...

I tested them with my Fluke on the diode setting. The problem is out where I live there isnt many people with 1JZ ECU's unless I can find a guy in DFW Supras to let me borrow his which is highly unlikely.

My car started acting up again the other day doing the same thing as when the Caps blew in it. When opening up the ECU I found that the diodes on the side near where there are two caps there are five in a row the middle one had been hot and upon testing with my Diode tester it tested bad. I was...

LOL sadly my car just started this too. Low idle missing bad and white smoke. I replaced the CAPS last year and it worked fine till now. mine has burn marks just like his though around the same resistors it seems. Also it isnt the caps size I replaced them with the same size that came out. The...

I haven't seen many times when the electric fans didnt perform better than any stock unit. I am still running the hydro fan without the temp sensor and it runs full blast all the time and mine stays nice and cool. Could always be a air bubble trapped in the system. All it would take is it to...

Granted you have checked all of the sensors but did you open up the ECU and check the caps. That is what mine turned out to be. There are five of them in the ECU look for black looking goop below it on the board. If the goop is there then the cap is bad and needs to be replaced. I just had all...

When I checked mine to make sure I was getting signal to the Tach it was the same but on a different wire. Mine was a red with blue stripes and the voltage would vary depending on where the throttle was. I soldered a splice into that one and my factory tach works like a champ.

Zipties and looms to route them away from all hot spots. Then since I routed my harness under the speedo cable I took all of the wires through the ECU harness hole and back to the mount where I got the controller. Under my hood unless you know what you are looking for you wouldn't see the valve...

No nothing like that they are backwards what I did is knock off the welded nut and put a bolt through it then took a hammer to make a indent and if fits perfect. wasnt trying to be an ass about it just wondering if there was something I missed thats all.

With your post from the Crossmember issue on the threads you said something about the clip cross member. I modified my clip cross member and it works fine just wondering if you ran into any problems with one before.

I tapped into the Blue one with a red strip and my tach works perfect all of the other black wires there didnt give me anything.

My car starts without pushing in the Clutch but for a whole different reason. The previous owner took out the clutch start relay in the kick panel and replaced it with a #8 cable with two plugs on the end. Works fine I just havent got around to replacing it.

I wish I could make it will be in Ft. Lauderdale till Monday. Would be nice to get to see a lot of the cars from this forum but it will prolly have to wait. Sad I am only like 4 hours away but the cost of gas eesh.

I am using the 7M gauge and changed the wireing like all of the swap info sites say and mine works fine. I have even went and shot my laser temp sensor on the motor to see if the block was over the actual temp readout. But it was actually a little lower than normal operating temp. I would say...

When I installed my HKS type 0 I bought a plug and play adapter for it. You can find them on ebay all the time for like 10 bucks for the greddy and HKIS turbo timers. Then all you do is unplug your ignition switch plug and insert it between the plugs and boom your there. Then all you have left...

I think it is unanimous the clip is the way to go. I got one because I wanted all of the intercooler parts and the sensors and stuff that I didnt have. Plus if you want to go that route you can use the crossmember if you have a pre 89. its a pain to swap but when you have the whole clip might as...