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So I did a boost leak test by putting 15psi through my accordion hose today. I found multiple leaks: injectors, dipstick O-ring(popped and startled gurgling/spitting oil about 10 mins in of testing), and finally someplace behind my egr valve.. These leaks are enough for my air compressor gauge...

I fixed the idle but i still need to do a boost leak test, hopefully I can tomorrow. oh yes very fond with codes, all clear. BTDC was way rich after switching TPS so it was like LESS FUEL LESS FUEL, I set to 10 and I got 3.5V

oooooh got it ><

Wait what happened here, I didn't get this part.

How in the hell... a turbo at idle can do that? Even high idle I still can't envision that happening, unless your boosting and you stick a finger in there, I can see that, but wow...

No I was just saying the TB valve closes completely when the car is off. "the throttle valve closes perfectly with no gap between the lever and stop screw when the car is off." Previously when the car was on, without the spring I recently installed, it would not, there be a .5mm gap from...

Okay! Idle Issue solved! I had previously modified a TB by switching the JDM linkage to a US TB. Keep in mind, one version of the 7mgte TB does not have the mounting for the spring that extends from the TB mounting and helps pull the TB valve shut. (Not sure which it is, too many variables...

O_O

Hmm but with each TPS the idle is different, one tps makes the car idle at 1400, one at 1100, one at 900, and one at 600 that acts indecisive. This is with only the tps as a variable. Appreciate it, ill try that out.

My current setup: dashpot returns faster than than the next clip I will show, although does not extend all the way, I can pull it out another 2mm http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo175/Bri7manx/Idle%20issues/?action=view&current=VID-20110921-00053.mp4 Random TB I came across: extends further...

Yeah I'm pretty sure that's my problem, I want to test my whole system so I think I'm going to to test at the accordion hose where the afm housing plugs into. Apparently it's fine to do this and push 20psi through your engine to really find and secure ALL the loose fittings?

Ahh very nice, thank you! That was a derp move on my part..

I want a relatively cheap fool proof way to find any vac leaks in my system. I sprayed soapy water all around my vac lines while my engine was running and found no bubbling, but for some reason it just doesn't strike me as a very reliable or fool proof test method and neither does the blowtorch...

It seems like vapor lock or flooded cyl's, or if those 2 are the same thing..? Not sure. But anyways I do know I'm in for some trouble and a call to my insurance company for a tow if the car doesn't fire on the first key turn attempt following death after boosting. After that I can continue...

Sorry I was sleep deprived and tired when I posted, I mixed up the terminals, it was VF and E1.

Cool, although unfortunately I run stock engine management and don't plan on changing that anytime soon.

I'm really interested.. I would love a COP setup that has a built in igniter to replace the stock one for a couple reasons.

I'm running a stock bov, I cleaned it thoroughly with gas and ran it with white vinigar through the dishwasher. It's recirculated. So that last voltage reading was wrong, because I had swapped in my other tps, which changed the timing to around 7btdc, so I adjusted the timing to 10 and now the...

I'll try that, I just measured VF and TE1 on the diagnostic block and got a reading of 1.06V, from what I understand which is very little, that it is quite low? I'll try to bypass the vsv, but I'm honestly scared to test it, if I don't catch the rpm and it dies it seems like a 50% chance it will...

Sure. Well after letting off from boost and shifting into neutral the rpm's will stumble below 500 and the car will continue to fight off death unless I give it tap from the throttle, it will usually die if it begins to stumble and I don't catch it within 3 seconds. This doesn't always happen...