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interesting swap/build! what are you doing about the rear quarter rust? looks like a cut and shut job...

i can see your frustration at his post Ians13 but thats not what i'd call flush. the rim pokes past the guard and you've run stretch to compensate. however i wouldn't say they "hang like crazy either". if you lowered the front a little more you could run some more tyre up there. what is the...

^^^ those widths and offsets wont fill the gaurds on their own so i'd be going for as much tyre as appropriate in order to fill them out (and you'll have the advantage of more grip as well). 245/40 on the front and 265/35 on the back should be spot on.

A 245 is too much tyre on an 8. You wouldn't want more than a 235. Offset depends on what look you want, you could go right down to +20 and still be fine and that would fill the guard nicely. Google wheel offset calculators and you can compare widths and offsets of different wheels and the calc...

Won't need any work at all :)

i decided to put off the unexplaned pad clearance issue today while i wait to hear back from the Arizona Perfomance and ripped off the rest of the mouldings and rear bar for paint. also fitted the HSDs in the back. obviously needs to go much lower to make those wheels fit clearly i fucked...

one sec, will go get one... EDIT: front wheels are back on as i had to roll the car out of the shed to fit the rear coilovers. ill try and get one tomorrow.

i would phone him but im in Australia so thats not really possible. have spoken to him over the phone when i was in the states, he's a top guy, very helpful. i think its unlikely that i got the wrong rotor. i have got one pad it but its damn tight (too much friction between the pad and the...

just losened off the bleeder on the outboard side then and attempted to push the piston back in with a c-clamp - no movement :( ive got no idea what is going on: i was able to slip the pad into the inboard side but there is too much fricton when turning the rotor by hand (the fit is too tight)...

Yeah the pistons are protruding from the calipers by about 1-2mm. Andy at arz tells me the caliper and pad combo is designed to be used with a 1.25 thick rotor where as this kit has a 1.36 so obviously the calipers have been "pre set" in this arrangent to take the thinner rotor.

have you done the instal GrimJack? is it safe to use a c-clamp or do i need one of those special caliper tools... cheers mate

feel like i've started a thread every day just recenly, but here goes :naughty: those of you who've done the ARZ wilwood instal (this question concerns the 4 pot front kit): i've just gone to slide my pads into the calipers and im finding they dont actually fit - there isnt enough of a gap...

thank you for your input guys! one less thing i have to think about. my basic build has seemed like an endless journey of soucing tiny shitty little lubricants, washers and odd parts and its all adding up/taking up time! that's supras i guess...

I've got a complete brand new speedo cable assembly here ready to fit. I've read in some threads on here that it needs to be lubricated? IS this the case with a brand new toyota replacement or is it pre-lubed? if not, what kind of lubrication is required? cheers

obviously they're there for a reason but at the same time, do you think every auto shop has the torque specs for every car they work on? doubtful. there is a way to tighten bolts by feel, just ask any fitter

i dont use torque settings as such, rather i ensure everything is as tight as possible without overdoing it. with a bolt like the lower strut, its pretty hard to over-tighten so as tight as possible works for me.

Thanks mate. Washer is going then. Naturally I'm worried about it coming undone haha

Below are some pics of the FRONT lower strut bolt. Notice there is a thick washer there. I've done this bolt up damn tight and there isnt much thread left over. The other side doest not have a washer, it could be missing (perhaps someone didnt put it back somewhere along the line) or maybe it...

progress today on this! got to re-installing the front RHS suspension components and new coilovers...(excuse the phone pics) everything is back in, nice and clean, done up bloody tight (with threadlock in some areas) and ready to go. notice the dust sheild has been cut away completely to...

looks similar to mine atm (reference to it being on stands and in peices :p. i agree though, grey supras are pretty damn hot, i never considered it as a good colour for them as i always loved black (my last two 70s were both black). my current one is resprayed in "Ford Ego" and i bought it that...