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All brands of paint get more expensive the more pearls/metallic that is in them. White and black tend to be pretty cheap.The FX is normally added in a clear binder,or the first coat of clear,with the exceptions of the color changing stuff.

single stage doesn't work real well when you add metalflake to it.Their base coat (ultra 3000 I believe)is decent,and 639 is pretty good clear too.I would plan to spend at least $500 in paint/clear,and materials.

That is crazy high for a gallon of paint,especially white.I can get it at local auto paint places for about $150 without a discount.Alot of times body shops will sell you enough to paint your car for a substantial discount.Sikkens autoclear is a high quality clear and reasonably priced(my cost...

That's why you should just keep drinking,hangovers are the porthole to sobriety.

Jeigerbombs kick ass

Haven't had any issues with them wearing quicker than oem.Ran slotted ones on my mk2's.I run drilled ones on my mk3,and currently have drilled and slotted ones on my cressida with 20k+miles on them(pulling a heavy ass trailer) and they still have quite a bit of material left on the pads.Pad...

I don't necessarily think they are any more specific to a race application than they are to spirited/aggressive driving.I know I had some problems with brake fade and rotor warp w/stock brakes just out playing in the backroads.The slots are intended to help release gases that are produced when...

You would be better off going to a local automotive paint retailer.House of kolors makes some cool colors,but,they are VERY pricey.If you are wanting a heavy blue flake I would recommend house of kolors for that,I would suggest buying the white elsewhere.Also,the larger the size of the flake...

Which version of the safc did you use?I can get one of the older one's from a friend for $50(silver case w/blue screen)

What kind of mods did you have?What did your car run on the dyno?

I have also been curios on this,as the Apexi lists as being able to work w/turbo cars but they also have a different AFM,correct?Are they even able to be wired into the NA's afm?I do believe this would help,as my na runs piss rich at wot.

Correct,that is ,once again,why I said to make sure temp is up on the climate control,or that the "heat" be on if you will.If the HCV is in the open position then,logically, the heater core would be less likely to have air trapped in it.

If you're gonna correct my terminology could you also answer my question, what purpose does the heater control valve serve? Doesn't it restrict flow to the heater core when the temp is turned down on the climate control so as not to have hot air emanating from your dash?

That is why I said to make sure "heat" was on.The heater core is less likely to trap air in it if the heater valve is fully open correct?

I stand corrected.That's probably why I used the terms "I may be wrong",and "I thought".Never said there is a "heater" switch either.Just because the controls aren't specifically designated as "hot" and "cold" doesn't mean that isn't their function.Anyways this thread isn't about correcting...

I may be wrong,but I thought the heater core only circulated with the heat on. Isn't that the purpose of the heater control valve?

Deciphering huh? hell, I damn near thought he wrote shit in some sort of code.

don't forget to make sure your heat is on to make sure it gets the air out of the heater core too.

Correct,I think the mk2 even more so than the mk3.I have yet to have a 5MGE run for less than 300k miles with basic maintenance.The only reason my mk3 didn't break 200k is because it had a hose leaking and was badly overheated several times from the lady I bought it from.Sounds to me like you...

I would gladly dump way more then these cars are "worth" into them,instead of paying $20k+ for some new piece of shit w/no style or class