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Well really your best bet is stock springs or some random lowering springs. I would go with stock. You could try spring rubbers, they'll go between the coils and they might help raise it up a little, they might not. I've never used them and I'm not sure how much they compress. Circle...

You have the right idea. The center or a bar in torsion doesn't do as much as the outside of the bar. For this type of calculation you're working with diameter^4, so for all solid bars, you compare the diameters to the fourth power and you can estimate change in stiffness. But with hollow...

Well it really depends on some things. I rebuild the dampers on my brother's car every season. This is the TIP Setup that I designed and for the most part it's just a fluid change and sometimes it might not even need it. It's just standard practice for me. For off the shelf...

I knew people were cheap, but this is really cheap. You can cut springs and get away with it if you know what you're doing. Cutting off an active coil will raise the rate of the spring. So if you put some thought into and figure out what rates you will get by cutting what amount of spring...

Dimman, I know what you're saying about the different companies. It's hard to tell what's real and what's just marketing BS. The only way to really know is to talk to the people who are sponsored. Also, consider the person's background giving the review. A lot of people tend to think that...

Dimman, I'm picking up what you're putting down. Wheel and tire fitment is almost a game. It really depends on how much work you want to do, what you're going to do with the car and how you want it to look. It also depends on your ride height, suspension travel and alignment as to how much...

Well most times you aren't going to be able to go to your local speedshop and pick out a set of wheels. Some places do stock a good assortment though, but most of the time, wheels will have to be ordered. It just doesn't make good business sense to stock a ton of different wheels in many...

Thanks JJ, In my quick looking over, I assumed that the idle up was a seperate solenoid and then the PPS solenoid would activate at a given speed and decrease the amount of assist from the pump. In this case, I thought progressive was only 2 stages not including idle. More of a marketing...

Could I trouble you for a quick explanation? I've just never dealt with it. I have seen several other setups that all work a little differently but seem to be the same idea, but I'm kind of interested in how exactly the supra setup works. From just some quick looking at the TSRM, it makes...

You can run smaller than the manufacturer recommends. I've run 235s on a 10 for drifting many times. I've had many friends even running 235 on a 10.5 for drifting as well. So it depends on what it's for and depends on power and what you want out of the car and how you want it to look.

I don't remember, I checked it myself when we got the car back together and was just happy it was even on both sides. I think it's like 2, maybe a little more.

On the first page, the pictures I posted were with a 10+18 with a 235/40. I think we could still go a little lower with the car in the rear, but without lowering the front anymore, it's not really worth it.

So using the Mr2 pump with the PPS computer? Does anyone know how exactly the PPS works? Like what inputs it has, what amount it affects the pressure, etc? All the technical details on it.

Well based on the information I have already, the ride isn't going to be affected that much. Ride quality is based on high speed compression damping, which is already pretty soft on these dampers. And changing the springs won't greatly affect the critical amount of compression damping. This...

What size tires? If you're stretching them a little, you could go bigger than that.

So what are these extreme sizes you are thinking of running?

Yeah, there is a lot that should go into it. It just makes things easier in the long run if you put in the work before hand. Otherwise, you're stuck with some spring rates that may or may not be what's best for the car and then you have to mess around with different sway bars and try and tune...

What?

Well that looks like D2 or Ksports or probably any other of the low budget coilover setups. 1. Inverted shock design: I'm assuming this means for the front and for macpherson strut cars. An inverted strut is stronger because the beam in bending is the actual shock body and not the shaft...

I'm assuming he borrowed the wheel/wheels from someone to test fit them on his car.