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My bad,thought the car was in FL,where your location is.Here in the "rust belt" AKA the Midwest.They have become very hard to come by in savable condition. I was in awe when I went to FL in 2K1,tranny started going in Georgia(lost 3 &4) Kept going,and made it to Naples.The junkyard there had...

Made me LOL.

Damn you southerners with your nice MK2's.:( Makes me miss mine,they are few and far between up here anymore,especially with rear quarters intact. Cool pics Tanya

I'm pretty sure the factory paint IS enamel,I know it's not lacquer. Most single stage paints are enamel,I would suggest using a urethane base/clear system on it(better finish,and stain resistance with the white) Urethane CAN even be applied over lacquer primer,but if you get it too...

Nice lookin' cressy,see your air dam is bent up too.Plan to go with a 5-speed also?There are several members on here with some stout Cressida's.(Wesbeech and Bishop40K off the top of my head)IIRC Wes' is a built 7MT,bishop's is currently undergoing a 2JZ swap. Welcome to supramania,good luck...

A lot more prep work(sanding mostly.) Not really worth the hassle unless car has been painted several times,and has a lot of paint built up,or has been painted with lacquer before.

Most rattle can primer is lacquer.Little trick I learned for feathering out chips is to use a piece of 80 grit on your thumb,and just twist it in the chip.Gives a good "tooth" for the putty to stick,and feathers down the hard edge of the chip at the same time. Take a straight edge razor blade...

Damn my memory,for some reason when I swapped to the W-58 in the cressy I thought the splines matched,but the front shaft was just too short.Oh well,wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.

pretty sure the splines are the same on the W-58 also,doesn't matter if the DS is too short though.

You don't need to strip your factory paint down to metal.Lacquer is the stuff that doesn't like urethane over it,can cause it to "lift",(think wrinkle paint) Epoxy or urethane (2K)primer will go over it fine,don't use lacquer primer,it's junk. For the chips in the front end,just use a light...

Front half is different length,rear is same.

Hehe,gerbils just wouldn't cut it any more.:biglaugh:

You might turn Jay on if you do,be careful.:sarcasm:

Nice.

There are a couple mods that increase steering angle.Just search for them.

My first MK2 had a weak tension spring on the timing belt,and before I fixed that it would occasionally jump one tooth,car would not even think about starting. I too would check timing,Have spun a key out of the crank just driving down the highway,car acted the same way as you describe,lost...

That,and the fact that my kid rides in the back,is enough to make me want to be sure the rear(passenger)seat belts are in good working order.

Are you sure it's loctite,(seen everything from nail polish to model paint used for threadlocker)loctite doesn't list a yellow loctite on their site.I think it's the red loctite that is supposed to be heated to remove. The PB works well on bolts that are tough due to heat cycling,not sure how...

Have you tried to spray them with a penetrating lube?I would recommend PB Blaster.Spray them,let them soak,repeat a couple times,let it soak for a couple hours though.Depending on which loctite was used on them,you may need to heat them up with a propane torch also(may need to heat them either...

Been said a lot, don't forget you need to be on the compression stroke(both valves closed)with the rope trick,or you WILL bend the valves.